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Thread: My LCD screen project, boost, WBO2, Knock, etc

  1. #941
    The Panda Not Verified
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    Great job!

    Ported heads, IPS 2mm oversized valves, Delta 264/272 cams, 3SX High rev valve springs, 3SX cam gears,
    Merkel 6g72 3.5L BILLET crank stroker (going in this summer), 3sx poly motor mounts
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    Denso Supra fuel pump, RC 750cc fuel injectors, AEM Fuel pressure regulator,​
    AEM wideband & boost gauge, AEM EMS in speed density,
    Addco sway bars, DBA 4000 drilled & slotted rotors, Enkei PF01 18x9 +45, BFGoodrich g-froce KDW 245/40/R18

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  3. #942
    At least my jackstands are reliable Not Verified
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    Today I am FINALLY installing this thing after having it since the tail end of last year. Everything has gone smooth but I have a few questions.

    1. Orange or green wire is for WBO2, or does it matter? I know it is the WBO2/Aux harness, just don't know if it matters which one it goes to. I have a Prosport WBO2 with an analog output harness with three wires; black, blue (? colorblind), and brown. I seem to recall the brown wire being the one that I need, but I can't find my gauge instructions and Prosport's website (http://prosportgauges.com/Wideband analog instructions.pdf) doesn't mention it. 1.5: Does anyone know if it is the brown wire?

    2. The aux wire; can it be used for an oil pressure gauge?

    The stock sender should be accurate enough, it's the stock gauge that is inaccurate, correct?

    95 Base 3k: 6G74/TT/AWD conversion

  4. #943
    The wire color for the WBO2 and Aux differ from batch to batch so I can't tell you which color it is, however the wire closest to the LCD display connector is the WBO2.

    Best to contact Prosport, and ask which wire is the Analog 0-5V signal. You're also going to need to know what that voltage represents too. ie. 0V=10 AFR, 5V=20 AFR.

    The only acceptable signal that goes to Aux is ground signal. It is meant to be hooked up to a switch, with one wire going to ground, and the other wire to the Aux. So when the switch is activated it provides a ground signal. So hooking up anything else to it would be an incorrect thing to do, so no to hooking up an oil sensor to it.

    Some users wanted to hack their LCDBC into giving more information, such as oil pressure sensor. This involves soldering 3 wires, ground, +5v, and signal. So that's why you see those options in software, to support those hacks.

    There's nothing wrong the stock oil gauge itself, it lacks sensitivity and numbers. Our oil sending unit sometimes get compromised over time, ie, bad electrical contact and then displays this incorrect data to the stock gauge.

  5. #944
    1st ever COTM and COTY verified
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    Quote Originally Posted by j2k4 View Post
    Wow that install looks perfect lol

    Quote Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy View Post
    I bet she smells of old mustard and sawdust.
    Jeremy

  6. #945
    At least my jackstands are reliable Not Verified
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    Thanks Antero, That's good enough for me. The PDF I linked has the afr/voltage scale on it so I'm all set there.

    Mine doesn't look as nice as J2K4's, I couldn't get it up as high since I didn't want to cut the plastic light piece thing. I used it instead to keep the screen level.

  7. #946
    BAD ASS - I've got one Not Verified
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uniuno View Post
    Thanks Antero, That's good enough for me. The PDF I linked has the afr/voltage scale on it so I'm all set there.

    Mine doesn't look as nice as J2K4's, I couldn't get it up as high since I didn't want to cut the plastic light piece thing. I used it instead to keep the screen level.
    Quote Originally Posted by green-lantern View Post
    Wow that install looks perfect lol
    I'm willing to share the identity of the fellow who hacked up my dash cluster...
    Ranked No. #1 in initial quality

    Idiots, simply by being idiots, seem capable of achieving randomly bad things that are beyond the imaginings of sensible people.

  8. #947
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    Don't do it lol

  9. #948
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    Quote Originally Posted by j2k4 View Post
    I'm willing to share the identity of the fellow who hacked up my dash cluster...
    If it's who i think it is, you shouldn't trust him. He's kinda shady
    Mods: 2g 3k body conversion, 2g Brake upgrade, Rota P45R rims
    Projects: Interior sound deadening, 14Bs, forged bottom end, custom radiator and sound mounts

  10. #949
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    You can't trust those long haired types...
    1995 Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo
    Mods: DR750s, BC Sportsman rods, Ross pistons, ACT HD 6 puck clutch, 5 speed transmission, 300M output shaft, Broomfield racing billet transfer case housings, Spectre air filter, GM 3.75" MAF w/translator, DN Pre-turbo pipes, Pampena/CX Racing dual core FMIC, M2 Performance turbo-back exhaust, Walbro 450lph E85 pump, SXPerformance fuel filter, stainless fuel feed lines, EK2 Mfg fuel rails, SXPerformance AFPR, 1000cc Bosch injectors, 99 VR4 replica ECU w/ Chrome for tuning, Kenne Bell Boost-a-Spark, Blitz SBC i-D boost controller, IPS oil cooler, Intrax springs on KYB GR2 struts, Enkei Kojin 18X9.5 +30, Nexen N3000s, 99 front end, carbon fiber steering wheel, Pioneer AVH-X2600BT, JL C2 6.5" and 6"x9" speakers, free 4 channel amp for subs (LOL), twin Alpine 10" type E subs.

    Made 608whp/631wtrq on Pampena's dyno @ 31 psi.

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  12. #950
    At least my jackstands are reliable Not Verified
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    Yep, Sorry, I failed to RTFM. Actually, I was reading rather than looking at the picture. I got it all in and installed my chrome ECU at the same time. Worked first time, I couldn't believe it. I still haven't driven the car yet as I am currently in the middle of other projects on it too.

    Thanks for your help!

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