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Thread: My LCD screen project, boost, WBO2, Knock, etc

  1. 07-20-2012, 07:29 AM #741
    BlackStealth
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    HHH OBD1 is designed for 91-93 ECUs. However, when you use flashable ECU -> LCDBC -> HHH OBD1 software works. This is because LCDBC communicates with the flashECU using MUT protocol, and then communicates to HHH datalogger using OBD1 protocol.
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  2. 07-20-2012, 07:45 AM #742
    j2k4
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackStealth View Post
    HHH OBD1 is designed for 91-93 ECUs. However, when you use flashable ECU -> LCDBC -> HHH OBD1 software works. This is because LCDBC communicates with the flashECU using MUT protocol, and then communicates to HHH datalogger using OBD1 protocol.
    Pure luck that I have what I have, then.

    Thanks, Antero.
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  3. 07-20-2012, 10:37 PM #743
    DK77
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    Great, thanks for clearing that up, I thought that was basically what you had told me in the past.
    1995 Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo
    Mods: DR750s, BC Sportsman rods, Ross pistons, ACT HD 6 puck clutch, 5 speed transmission, 300M output shaft, Broomfield racing billet transfer case housings, Spectre air filter, GM 3.75" MAF w/translator, DN Pre-turbo pipes, Pampena/CX Racing dual core FMIC, M2 Performance turbo-back exhaust, Walbro 450lph E85 pump, SXPerformance fuel filter, stainless fuel feed lines, EK2 Mfg fuel rails, SXPerformance AFPR, 1000cc Bosch injectors, 99 VR4 replica ECU w/ Chrome for tuning, Kenne Bell Boost-a-Spark, Blitz SBC i-D boost controller, IPS oil cooler, Intrax springs on KYB GR2 struts, Enkei Kojin 18X9.5 +30, Nexen N3000s, 99 front end, carbon fiber steering wheel, Pioneer AVH-X2600BT, JL C2 6.5" and 6"x9" speakers, free 4 channel amp for subs (LOL), twin Alpine 10" type E subs.

    Made 608whp/631wtrq on Pampena's dyno @ 31 psi.
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  4. 07-24-2012, 09:40 AM #744
    j2k4
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    Question:

    UPS did a great job of undoing a bit of Green Lantern's work - the display separated from the back of the tach-face in shipment.

    I'm gonna re-attach it per his method, but I think I may run a very thin bead of RTV around the LCD before I re-assemble things.

    Any reason I would NOT want to do this?
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  5. 07-24-2012, 10:25 AM #745
    BlackStealth
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    I'm not familiar with RTV so I can't give you advise on that. Maybe some strong glue on the top edge so it bonds to the thick clear plastic light diffuser. Be sure to let it dry flat so glue does not run down (gravity).
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  6. 07-24-2012, 10:38 AM #746
    j2k4
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackStealth View Post
    I'm not familiar with RTV so I can't give you advise on that. Maybe some strong glue on the top edge so it bonds to the thick clear plastic light diffuser. Be sure to let it dry flat so glue does not run down (gravity).
    Copy that, Antero - thanks.
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  7. 07-24-2012, 03:27 PM #747
    j2k4
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackStealth View Post
    I'm not familiar with RTV so I can't give you advise on that. Maybe some strong glue on the top edge so it bonds to the thick clear plastic light diffuser. Be sure to let it dry flat so glue does not run down (gravity).
    Oh, and RTV is just pretty standard grade automotive silicone.
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  8. 07-24-2012, 06:57 PM #748
    CoopKill
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    I used epoxy, she ain't coming off...

    Help them, for they know not that which they do not know!
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  9. 07-24-2012, 09:08 PM #749
    j2k4
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoopKill View Post
    I used epoxy, she ain't coming off...
    Don't know if I'm confident enough I can apply epoxy cleanly, Bill.

    Probably the best choice, if I were, but the eyes...
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  10. 07-24-2012, 09:12 PM #750
    CoopKill
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    Toothpics work well, tape the screen in place, and toothpick the epoxy along the back edges...

    Be sure it is stable in place before gluing. It should sit overnight using the 20 minute epoxy.
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