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Thread: My LCD screen project, boost, WBO2, Knock, etc

  1. #1451
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    I ended up picking up the Oil temperature sensor online (140-280 degree 240-33 Ohm two wire sensor), but I don't know how to wire it to the LCDBC. I have tried multiple configurations including using a 51 ohm resistor to simulate a predictable temperature, but nothing seems to work. The wire leads from the LCDBC are ground, sensor, and +5V, but I can't get a steady reading on the device. how is this to be wired up to make it work?

  2. #1452
    Oh you should have purchased my oil temp sensor as it included the additional electronics required to convert ohms to volts. You need a small converter box to make it work with the LCDBC unit. Oil temp converter box is $10 + shipping ($10 airmail, or $15 tracked packet).

    Edit: You might want to verify your oil temp sensor still works, as you were sending more current to it than expected without any limiting resistance. Get an ohm meter and measure the resistance.
    Last edited by BlackStealth; 09-26-2016 at 08:44 AM.

  3. #1453
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    Hey Antero,

    Just sent $25 USD your way to get the oil temp converter box. I didn't send any power to the sensor as I didn't want to fry it. I used a 51 ohm resistor on the LCDBC box to see if I would get the correct corresponding temp reading on the screen once I started messing with the 5V supply. Of course that didn't work. Looking forward to the Oil temp converter box and wiring instructions. Once I get that, I can take the car back out and do some more high boost testing.

  4. #1454
    When the oil temperature sensor converter box arrives, just plug it into Ext3 or Ext4 sensor connector, as these provide +5v power. There are two screw terminals for you to wire in the oil temp. sensor to. My oil temp. sensor unit is not polarity sensitive. I verified this by using an ohm meter and placed the black probe to the metal body of the sensor, and the red probe to each wire one at a time, and measured very high resistance (no connectivity) on each. If by chance you did get a low resistance reading, then that wire needs to go to the left screw terminal -- this insures ground is connected to ground. The last step is to go to LCDBC config menu and define Ext3 or Ext4 as oil temp. sensor.

  5. #1455
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    HI Antero, Quick question on the LCD Boost controller. When I installed the Oil Temp sensor to the device, I am able to see the result value on Ext2, 3, and 4 output. My LCDBC box is the newer version with the 2 inputs on one side for Ext3 and Ext4. I currently have my Oil temp sensor hooked up to what I believe is Ext3, but I have it displaying on Ext2 on the screen. My question is where is the 4th input of the input sets located on the box physically (am I missing something). also, if I wanted to add additional sensors down the road (for instance 2 EGTs) is this a plug and play affair, or will modifications need to be made to the box? I currently have a 150 psi oil pressure sensor in Input 1, the Oil temp sensor as a second input. I am contemplating replacing my EGT gauge with dual egt input into the LCDBC if this is possible. Any help is greatly appreciated.

  6. #1456
    As you can see in this picture, Ext1 and Ext2 provides power, where as Ext3 and Ext4 does not. Ext3 and Ext4 share a 2pin connector.

    When a microprocessor does a voltage scan on Ext2, it momentarily connects to Ext2 to charge up an internal capacitor to take a snapshot of the voltage present. It takes a couple microseconds for the microprocessor to determine what voltage is on that internal capacitor, store the result and proceed to the next (Ext3, Ext4,etc). If Ext3 is left unconnected, the internal capacitor has no way to discharge and the result will be the same voltage as before. So it is perfectly normal to expect the same voltage on an unconnected pin.

    You would need an EGT device that outputs 0 to 5 volts, such as a Stinger EGT. The probe itself isn't enough, as it provides only millivolts, and the Stinger EGT electronics boosts it to 5 volts.


  7. #1457
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    AH! That makes sense. Right now, I have my Oil Pressure sensor hooked up to "external Pressure" and my Oil temp hooked up to "Ext 2" and they both display accurately when Ext1 150PSI OIl Press and EXT2 Oil Temp are selected. This breakout makes it appear that I have room for 3 more sensors of my choosing and not just 2. Is this correct?

  8. #1458
    Here's the scanning order:
    WBO2 ,Internal Pressure Sensor, External Pressure Sensor, Ext1, Ext2, Ext3, Ext4.
    When Ext1 is scanned, it gets the voltage on the oil pressure sensor. With Ext2 disconnected and scanned, the micro will see the left over voltage on the internal capacitor from Ext1, and not the External Pressure Sensor port. So what you have done is wrong. I don't recommend plugging it into the wrong port.

    If there was really a need for Ext5, I could make the unused External Pressure Sensor port do that job, but it would require a lot of programming on my part.

  9. #1459
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    Would it be possible to use the LCDBC to control a water/meth pump?

    I'm using the boost control features in my Chrome ECU so the boost circuit in my LCDBC is currently unused and I'd really like not having to add another widget to thar car in form of a standalone water/meth controller.

  10. #1460
    Perhaps you can copy this:

    http://www.3sgto.org/threads/6232-My...controller-fun

    Most LCDBC circuit boards have a hole ready for a wire to be soldered in (alchy +5V PWM signal). I can provide the flash file to unlock the hidden alchy menus.
    Last edited by BlackStealth; 12-24-2016 at 09:20 AM.

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