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Thread: To those who have done the FWD TT Conversion...

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  1. #1
    Do what you want really man. I own a 98fwdtt and vr4. Traction isnt as bad if you stiffen up the rear(squats too much). With 5-6psi 10:1 with a NON gutted precat cat you

    should see 280-315whp depending on engine age. I can actually beat my friends 14psi bpu vr4 from second gear roll at 25mph @5psi.lol. People who do the conversion right away go for big power and end up getting a GUTTED precat and straight pipping which yields gobs of power but actually makes you useless in 1st and 2nd, and a bit of 3rd. Yea i like my vr4 and is what i always wanted when i first got into the 3s scene but the fwdtt always get

    compliments just because their aint many fwdtt that actually are running in my state. Its actually rare over here in colorado. If you want a long lasting fwdtt 10:1 i recommend you stay at wastegate 5-7psi with a NON gutted cat. With a fwdtt 8:1 no more than 14psi. More boost=more power but = less traction & more heat
    FYI the fwdtt is my daily driver since 07-08 and the vr4 is my project car. Stock its too slow compared to the fwdtt. Damm weight. lol
    Last edited by 98slept; 09-22-2010 at 02:16 AM.

  2. #2
    Yes, I really can DJ from my car...
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98slept View Post
    Do what you want really man. I own a 98fwdtt and vr4. Traction isnt as bad if you stiffen up the rear(squats too much). With 5-6psi 10:1 with a NON gutted precat cat you

    should see 280-315whp depending on engine age. I can actually beat my friends 14psi bpu vr4 from second gear roll at 25mph @5psi.lol. People who do the conversion right away go for big power and end up getting a GUTTED precat and straight pipping which yields gobs of power but actually makes you useless in 1st and 2nd, and a bit of 3rd. Yea i like my vr4 and is what i always wanted when i first got into the 3s scene but the fwdtt always get

    compliments just because their aint many fwdtt that actually are running in my state. Its actually rare over here in colorado. If you want a long lasting fwdtt 10:1 i recommend you stay at wastegate 5-7psi with a NON gutted cat. With a fwdtt 8:1 no more than 14psi. More boost=more power but = less traction & more heat
    FYI the fwdtt is my daily driver since 07-08 and the vr4 is my project car. Stock its too slow compared to the fwdtt. Damm weight. lol
    My plan is to make a solid stock-level TT power-rating, maybe slightly over. I'm not planning on trying to make some monster HP numbers; that's what I've been stressing. Everyone is talking about wheelspin and everything breaking from the power. My whole point has been to find out if it is worth the swap if I am going with stock TT HP numbers with good replacement components and taking my time doing the swap the correct way and not cutting corners. Like I said previously, this car is NOT my DD anymore, so I have the luxury of taking my time to get the job done right.

    In general thinking, I basically have my mind made-up that i want to go forward with a swap...but the more real-world experiences I hear about it, the more educated my decision making can be. It also really helps towards planning out HOW I want to do the swap, and what has worked for some and not worked for others regarding upgrades and methods. I'm pretty sure I have a great idea of the exact direction I want to proceed in, and I certainly appreciate everyone's input on this, criticism and support equally.
    91 Stealth RT/TT -New Mitsu Complete Shortblock, 13G TD04 Turbos, GReddy BOV, CXRacing SMIC Intercoolers with full Hard Pipes kit, Stillen Downpipe
    Stillen Intake, DN Polished Y-Pipe, Borla Catback Exhaust system, MSD Performance Wires, Vac Delete, 550 DR Injectors, HKS Boost Controller, HKS Super AFR, Rebuilt ECU, RPS Max Street Clutch and Pressure Plate, Crossdrilled & Slotted Rotors all around with Ceramic Pads, Stainless Braided Brake Lines w/ Red jackets all around, CXRacing 14kg Fully Adjustable Coilover Suspension, BT Freestyle 1-Off 18" Rims on 245/40/18's

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