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Thread: To those who have done the FWD TT Conversion...

  1. #31
    11 sec FWD! (old name: 94atxvr2) Feedback Score 0 11secondFWD's Avatar
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    Yea, I loved my AWD tranny. It is a must for a fwd tt. Awesome gearing and holds any power.

    Thats why I said, there are many other costs, like if doing fwdtt you should do awd tranny or you will be breaking the fwd soon and paying money in the long run.

    92 Eagle Talon TSI AWD Auto = 10.61@127.8 (1.4 60ft)
    94 3000gt SL 8:1TT 5spd getrag = 11.87@123 (1.8 60ft)
    91 3000gt VR4 13gs = 11.61@115 (1.59 60ft)

  2. #32
    Forum User verified Feedback Score 0 dfoster101's Avatar
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    imho id say if your doing the tt conversion i would spring for the awd conversion as well.. never know when that awd might save you.. not to mention your diving style might get a lil more spirited after you get a taste of the hundred extra hp,,

  3. #33
    TheOmniscientRT Feedback Score 0 TheRedStealth's Avatar
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    do it brent!

  4. #34
    Forum User Feedback Score 0 98slept's Avatar
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    Do what you want really man. I own a 98fwdtt and vr4. Traction isnt as bad if you stiffen up the rear(squats too much). With 5-6psi 10:1 with a NON gutted precat cat you

    should see 280-315whp depending on engine age. I can actually beat my friends 14psi bpu vr4 from second gear roll at 25mph @5psi.lol. People who do the conversion right away go for big power and end up getting a GUTTED precat and straight pipping which yields gobs of power but actually makes you useless in 1st and 2nd, and a bit of 3rd. Yea i like my vr4 and is what i always wanted when i first got into the 3s scene but the fwdtt always get

    compliments just because their aint many fwdtt that actually are running in my state. Its actually rare over here in colorado. If you want a long lasting fwdtt 10:1 i recommend you stay at wastegate 5-7psi with a NON gutted cat. With a fwdtt 8:1 no more than 14psi. More boost=more power but = less traction & more heat
    FYI the fwdtt is my daily driver since 07-08 and the vr4 is my project car. Stock its too slow compared to the fwdtt. Damm weight. lol
    Last edited by 98slept; 09-22-2010 at 02:16 AM.

  5. #35
    Yes, I really can DJ from my car... Feedback Score 0 DJ_X_Factor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98slept View Post
    Do what you want really man. I own a 98fwdtt and vr4. Traction isnt as bad if you stiffen up the rear(squats too much). With 5-6psi 10:1 with a NON gutted precat cat you

    should see 280-315whp depending on engine age. I can actually beat my friends 14psi bpu vr4 from second gear roll at 25mph @5psi.lol. People who do the conversion right away go for big power and end up getting a GUTTED precat and straight pipping which yields gobs of power but actually makes you useless in 1st and 2nd, and a bit of 3rd. Yea i like my vr4 and is what i always wanted when i first got into the 3s scene but the fwdtt always get

    compliments just because their aint many fwdtt that actually are running in my state. Its actually rare over here in colorado. If you want a long lasting fwdtt 10:1 i recommend you stay at wastegate 5-7psi with a NON gutted cat. With a fwdtt 8:1 no more than 14psi. More boost=more power but = less traction & more heat
    FYI the fwdtt is my daily driver since 07-08 and the vr4 is my project car. Stock its too slow compared to the fwdtt. Damm weight. lol
    My plan is to make a solid stock-level TT power-rating, maybe slightly over. I'm not planning on trying to make some monster HP numbers; that's what I've been stressing. Everyone is talking about wheelspin and everything breaking from the power. My whole point has been to find out if it is worth the swap if I am going with stock TT HP numbers with good replacement components and taking my time doing the swap the correct way and not cutting corners. Like I said previously, this car is NOT my DD anymore, so I have the luxury of taking my time to get the job done right.

    In general thinking, I basically have my mind made-up that i want to go forward with a swap...but the more real-world experiences I hear about it, the more educated my decision making can be. It also really helps towards planning out HOW I want to do the swap, and what has worked for some and not worked for others regarding upgrades and methods. I'm pretty sure I have a great idea of the exact direction I want to proceed in, and I certainly appreciate everyone's input on this, criticism and support equally.
    91 Stealth RT/TT -New Mitsu Complete Shortblock, 13G TD04 Turbos, GReddy BOV, CXRacing SMIC Intercoolers with full Hard Pipes kit, Stillen Downpipe
    Stillen Intake, DN Polished Y-Pipe, Borla Catback Exhaust system, MSD Performance Wires, Vac Delete, 550 DR Injectors, HKS Boost Controller, HKS Super AFR, Rebuilt ECU, RPS Max Street Clutch and Pressure Plate, Crossdrilled & Slotted Rotors all around with Ceramic Pads, Stainless Braided Brake Lines w/ Red jackets all around, CXRacing 14kg Fully Adjustable Coilover Suspension, BT Freestyle 1-Off 18" Rims on 245/40/18's

  6. #36
    1st ever COTM and COTY verified Feedback Score 9 (100%) green-lantern's Avatar
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    Go for it bro! you will like it.

    Quote Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy View Post
    I bet she smells of old mustard and sawdust.
    Jeremy

  7. #37
    94 3500gt vr2? verified Feedback Score 9 (100%) n2nsanity's Avatar
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    Funny, somehow I missed this thread. You wussed out and went the 3.5 n/a route. But that's ok because after you finish this, you still have the option to man up and do the tt conversion

  8. #38
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    I'm doing the swap the other way around, I converted my car to AWD first (it is still N/a haha) but I must say AWD is where it is at. The car feels like it hugs the corners rather than the feeling like the rear end is going to slip out with the FWD and to my surprise it is not as slow as I expected it to be haha. I cant even get it to spin the tires unless it is wet, but even then it still goes where I want it to. Also, the gearing of the AWD trans makes 3rd gear an odd place for an N/a engine. The back roads here are 30mph speed limits and getting stuck behind a minivan at those speeds makes 3rd gear bog but 2nd feels like I'm waayy past the shift point to be cruising over small hills. I would say do the AWD first so you don't waste time spinning tires when people try to pass you .

    I'm in the same boat as you for being attached to my car, all the little things I've done to it over the last 5 years have made me make the decision that I will never sell my car.
    93 Stealth ES - 3000GT conversion,AWD conversion, ACPT 1 piece CFDS, Operable AA wing, 99 rear garnish, R/T sails, ABS delete, SS Clutch line, SS braided brake lines, Vac clutch assist, 2G TT brakes all around, Kyb Gr-2 shocks, Megan Springs up front Tein S tech's in the rear, Cusco rear strut bar, Ebay front strut bar, TT cat back exhaust , K&N cone filter, Poly motor mounts, Poly front suspension bushings, and poly rear diff bushings.

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