alright thanks for all the help. i really apperciate it.
-jesse
alright thanks for all the help. i really apperciate it.
-jesse
Motor: 3.5 6g74, 3sx lw pulley, Maximal solid mounts, 8.5mm msd wires, Big tyla ground wires
Drive Train: Spec stage 2, Rps lightweight flywheel
Fuel: Ohhnoo ss fuel loop, TT fuel pump, TT fuel pump assembly
Nitrous: Zex Wet EFI Nitrous Kit, zex bottle heater, Zex purge kit, Zex no2 gauge, Nos window switch, Weevil custom ashtray nitrous switch panel
Managment: Autometer A/F gauge, Hand Held Halo dataloger, 3sx in bay fuel pressure gauge
Suspension: Front and rear ultimate performance strut bars, Megan springs, Saleen wheels
Intake/Exhaust: Generic cone filter intake and arm, Ultimate performance intake box, 3sx downpipe, 3sx test pipe, Megan catback
look Good: 3sx plug cover, 3sx engine covers, Polished plenum, Polished valve covers, Polished fuel rails, 3KGT2NV allen bolt ss kit, 2g black garnish, Rear active aero transplant, Jdm snake eyes
Interior: Custom two tone leather, Pioneer dvd, Alpine speakers, Alpine 4way amp, Ultimate performance door sills, Razo shift knob, 3sx Aluminum Pedal Covers, dual piller pod
wasting my money on a NA since 2009
1. Like has been said, the T for the feed line will go before the FPR, actually the feed line before it comes up to the front fuel rail...back when it's still rubber.
2. From what I remember with those setups they just need a signal from the TPS so it's best to just splice into the harness by the ECU. Not sure of the pin for the TPS off the top of my head but I'm sure you can look it up on here, stealth316, or the service manual.
3. 55 will be fine with the stock pump. If you want to go 75 or higher i'd go with a TT pump. I was running a 100 dry shot on a TT pump with no issues. I wouldn't go any higher than that.
4. You should be fine...as long as the kit atomizes the mixture enough the engine will be pulling in enough air to suck it all in.
5. Yeah, I think those kits use the TPS signal instead of a WOT switch. I would recommend a window switch. Running nitrous below ~3000rpms or when you're on the rev limiter is not good.
Another safety item I'd look at is an EGT gauge. It'll tell you if you're running too lean (and hot) before any big issues come up.
hmm so there isnt just a wire coming off the tps i can slice to in the engine bay? i have to cut into it by the ecu?
thanks.
now has anybody tried one of these for a power source... or is it kind of a gimmick. i like having to cut as few wires as possiable?
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-FUSE-BLOCK-EXT...item3cb74929f5
also should i point the fogger toward the throttle body or the intake for the best air fuel mixture?
Point it in the direction of flow. you will find that the high pressure nitrous will actually draw a little bit of extra air thru the MAF as well. This is called the "entrainment effect".
that fuse splice actually looks pretty cool... but how do you know if you're tapping the "in" or "out" side of the fuse? I would want the nitrous system to be protected (unless you're planning to mount another inline fuse).
I know the NOS kits come with an inline fuse...I imagine the Zex kit would too. I wired mine directly to the battery actually.
so i just bought a nos window switch and i have no idea how to wire it in to work with the tps switch and activation button.... wiring is not my specility can anyone laythis out in really easy terms for me.? here is the one i bought. thinking i got a good price![]()
NOS NItrous RPM Activated Window Switch 4.6 GT & Cobra | eBay
Not sure of the specifics of wiring this one but I would have went with a MSD window switch. You get a display and more versatility.
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