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Thread: Marsmik REBUILD thread due to Spun bearing cyl #2

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    Marsmik REBUILD thread due to Spun bearing cyl #2

    Yes.. I'm in the club!
    Now I have to plan a rebuild.. but on a budget..
    What do you think about this:

    -CRANK:
    mine is forged so i'm thinking to machine it
    this is the actual situation:


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    - RODS:
    at least 1 new if I stay with stock units
    or
    Spool forged rods (about 650$ on pmp)

    Clevite bearings

    - PISTONS:
    Forged ROSS stock bore

    - HEADS:
    '99 lifters + check and clean at the machine shop

    - BLOCK:
    Nothing.. just a check and hone at the machine shop


    120k tune up

    adjustable cam gears.

    Optional: 19t turbos.

    Other: the car is not DD and partially gutted but in the next months it will be almost totally gutted.

    About oil contamination is a New oil cooler, new oil pickup, everything cleaned sufficent for a perfect new engine or I miss something?
    Last edited by Marsmik; 05-23-2011 at 05:25 PM.
    Current mods: 13G (stock for my european 3S) - custom dual exhaust - 560 injectors (M20 fuel)- Hotwired 255 Walbro - S-AFC II - Magnecor wires - XTD stage III clutch - BCPR7ES plugs - Kn filter - Blitz DSBC- 19" OZ Superleggera wheels with 225/40 - D2 coilovers - . Gauges: Oil press, oil temp, boost, water temp, front and rear egt, a/f meter, ac complete delete

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    ^ really man? Read what he said. He said budget not junkyard bare minimum. He has a forged crank to start, though I'm not a machinist so i cant tell you whether that is salvageable or not. But my guess is that after it's cleaned it will probably need over sized bearings, but i don't know for sure. I am one for doing in once and doing it right. So if you can afford the downtime, just save up and put whatever you want in the engine this time, so it doesn't have to come back out. A new oil cooler is a good idea, I've dealt with some non-car coolers that get metal in them and I think it's pretty well impossible to get all the shavings out. Probably get new lines too, Split Second has some kits that are pretty fairly priced. I'm sure you checked your oil pan for the infamous dent. Only other thing I can think of is maybe some poly or solid engine mounts while you'll have them off.

    Good luck man! Glad you are saving her, don't forget to have fun with the rebuild!

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    When you spun the bearing, it is likely you deposited debris EVERYWHERE. You can try to clean the oil cooler, but MOST people would replace it. The single most important thing you need to do is clean all the oil passages and all oil lines super clean. Also check the turbos, many times the material from the spun bearing wipes out the turbo internals. You can resize the rod (or rods, depending on how many need it), but if you're putting in Ross pistons, I would recommend upgrading the rods as well. That would give you a nice, strong shortblock that should take whatever you throw at it. I also would suggest you make sure the balance shop balances the rotating assembly at 50%, not the 36% most of them use.

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    Quote Originally Posted by steve68 View Post
    There's no such thing as a forged 6G factory crank, they're all cast.

    The debris from the destoyed brearings goes into the sump, it won't go through the filter screen, any small particles that do get stopped by the filter, unless it's blocked.
    It should be painful to be that stupid....


    Real Performance Automotive (541)816-4500 www.FB.com/RealPerformanceAuto

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    Uhm... I believe anything 93+ in a forged crank from factory. I believe there is a much more knowledgeable source here to either back my statement or deny it. The filter screen if you are talking about the one on the pick up is very coarse, and wont stop all the debris. And some can get passed the filter and into other parts of the oil system. Don't give people info you have no clue about that could cause them to destroy their rebuild. There is going to be debris all through the engine and EVERYTHING needs cleaned after a bearing failure, otherwise you will just end up back at square one.
    Seems to me they are sold in all oversize sizes and not undersize? Unless you meant the crank would be undersize?
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    Member Not Verified Feedback Score 7 (100%) mb3000's Avatar
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    Forum User Not Verified Feedback Score 4 (100%) TUFFTR's Avatar
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    3SX Performance - 3000GT / Stealth Cast versus Forged Cranks*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts
    Steve, Nuff said'.
    You need to stop thinking all cranks are cast. 93+ are forged. Not fiction but fact. I have 2 cranks here I can easily identify as cast and forged.

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    And what about the heads? Mine are in good shape. What they need during a rebuild of a 80K miles motor?

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    Quote Originally Posted by steve68 View Post
    Belief = religion = lack of knowledge.

    Pistons come in oversizes
    Bearings come in undersizes, thought that would be perfectly obvious to everyone? Except sales type people?

    Steve
    The term "oversize" refers to the part being made "larger" in order to fit properly in an area machined differently from original. Pistons are "oversize" because their outer diameter is bigger to fit properly in a larger bore. Bearings are "oversize" because their thickness is bigger to properly fit a smaller journal.
    That said, the terms "oversize" and "undersize" are used almost interchangeably by a large percentage of enthusiasts and engine builders alike. I promise you, if you ask any reputable supplier for either "oversize" or "undersize", they'll send you the correct part.
    As far as "belief=religion=lack of knowledge" your position is "I am right and everyone else who says differently is wrong" is that exact statement minus the belief part. But you "know" everyone else in the world is wrong, so you fling the "stupid/ricer/etc" mud at them hoping to distract attention from the ignorance you display. All your alleged "knowledge" is just belief. You believe it, so it must be true. If someone else believes, they are branded with the "belief=religion=lack of knowledge" label.
    Not even in Kiwiland can two contradictory statements be true at the same time. Only in Steve68's delusional alternate universe can this be true.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marsmik View Post
    And what about the heads? Mine are in good shape. What they need during a rebuild of a 80K miles motor?
    For no other reason than they are off the car, I'd consider a "fresh valve job" and new valve stem seals. Part of that process will inspect all the other areas "just in case". That way, 80K miles from now you shouldn't need to take a set of 160K miles off for rebuild. Just an opinion.

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