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Thread: what is wrong with it?

  1. #1
    the BOSS of jellow supporter Feedback Score 0 a2j's Avatar
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    what is wrong with it?

    ok, I've been "building" my car for the past year or so. with big pauses in between.
    But it finally starts, or was starting I should say.
    I'll tell you what is going on, and you tell me what do you think is wrong here. I'd like some input before I start investigate.
    I was able to start a car with fresh gas. Oil temps and pressure in OK range. Water temp is also fine. EGTs were at 600-700 after 3-5min idle. Car was always idling at 1500rpms. Didn't go down. AFRs started at 14-15 and dropped to 18+ after a few seconds and stayed there. I'm 99% sure that there is no vac leaks. Gauge reads -18 vac. Engine sounds a little rough, but not too much.
    then it died, and I can't hear my fuel pump anymore.
    I guess, I will be replacing pump, filter and plugs.
    So, any ideas on why that was going on during idle?
    Fresh pump gas, 450cc inj. without SAFC correction.

    thank you for your input.
    Last edited by a2j; 05-06-2011 at 11:16 PM.
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    Member Not Verified Feedback Score 7 (100%) mb3000's Avatar
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    Not sure if it's just me, but those EGT's at idle seem a bit high. I never get over 500 at idle.

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    Rethink the vac leak issue. All three of the 95 VR4s in my family have -20 at 1000 RPM. If revved to 1500 in neutral, it is closer to -22. The high idle and low vac sound like a vac leak or IASC issue to me. The AFR going dead lean doesn't necessarily mean there is a lack of fuel. If the plugs don't fire, the raw fuel and lots of Oxygen are pumped into the exhaust, so the O2 sensor thinks there's lots of Oxygen (which there is) and reads lean. The IASC controls bypass air for warm up and could give these symptoms if it isn't working or working incorrectly. You should also check the fuel pressure before you change the pump/etc. If the pump or filter is bad, it could cause these symptoms, but the vac is low, IMHO and I'd check the things that cause that first. Just my .02.

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to BaadVR4 For This Useful Post:

    a2j

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    the BOSS of jellow supporter Feedback Score 0 a2j's Avatar
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    wow, thanks. talk about fresh ideas...

    so vac should be around -20? I did some vac reduction (obviously), I don't even have clutch vac assist. my vac readings before were -16.

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    the BOSS of jellow supporter Feedback Score 0 a2j's Avatar
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    ok, a little update.
    after replacing plugs and filter, car runs/fires more smooth. vac is in -18 -20 range. AFR still jumping from 14-18. EGTs at 700. oil pressure is at 80psi.
    idle is at 1500 rpm (-/+ 100) even when coolant is wormed up. I don't know why. any ideas?

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    the BOSS of jellow supporter Feedback Score 0 a2j's Avatar
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    so what can cause 1500rpm idle?

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    Senior (i.e. OLD) Member :) verified Feedback Score 4 (100%) OhioSpyderman's Avatar
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    Incorrect BISS setting?

    Bob.
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    the BOSS of jellow supporter Feedback Score 0 a2j's Avatar
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    incorrect what setting?

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    Member verified Feedback Score 0 DocWalt's Avatar
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    Base Idle Set Screw setting. I don't know the details of the procedure, but it involves grounding a socket thing and setting the BISS.
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  11. #10
    Senior (i.e. OLD) Member :) verified Feedback Score 4 (100%) OhioSpyderman's Avatar
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    Actually, it just involves adjusting the screw (it faces you out of the front of the Throttle body, normally covered with a cap, but all I've seen have been without...)

    Not sure how to describe where it is, but it's very visible standing in front of the engine....

    Turning the screw one way will reduce the idle RPM's, turning it the other will increase them.

    Flat tipped screwdriver and 10 minutes TOPS should fix this...

    Bob.

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