Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Removing Firewall Fiberglass

  1. #1
    Member verified Feedback Score 2 (100%) blindmist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    Aug 15, 2005

    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    697
    Thanks
    15
    Thanked 45 Times in 28 Posts

    Removing Firewall Fiberglass

    As some have noticed, I was power washing my engine bay last night. I have noticed how nasty and raggedy that damn fiberglass looks. What all does it really take to get it off of there? Is it safe and ok to run it without it there and just bare metal?

  2. #2
    Forum User verified Feedback Score 0
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since

    Location
    athens, ga
    Posts
    83
    Thanks
    3
    Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
    I would like to know as well...


    Mods: Evo3 16G turbo's, Titan manifolds, 680cc Denso's, ARC2 w/ large MAS, FMIC, TiAL BOV, DR Stage III heads, AC Delete, Flex-A-Lite fans, 25 row oil cooler,

  3. #3
    Forum User Feedback Score 0
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since

    Posts
    9
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    It just sits there, held on by all the crap on the firewall. There's no adhesive or anything on it, at least not on my 1996.

    As far as getting it off, well, unless you cut a lot, you're not going to do it without stripping a lot off the firewall. When I pulled my engine, I pulled the firewall insulation and cleaned it, and the firewall, up. That was really only possible (without cuttting) because I'd taken everything out except for the brake lines.

    There are holes cut in the blanket for the AC lines, the AC line brackets, the heater hoses, the cruise control box, the shifter cables, the steering column, the brake booster. The clamps for the brake lines also hold it on. Without taking all that stuff off, you have to cut at the holes to get it off. With everything out but the brake lines, I still had to cut it at the steering column and the shifter cables (I left those both alone).

    I think it would be pretty hard to get it out, even cutting at all the holes, with the engine in the car. It was hard with everything out to be careful and not tear anything. It's not a real robust blanket, the insulation will pull apart easily and the coverings will tear also.

  4. #4
    Forum User Not Verified
    Feedback Score 6 (100%)
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2004

    Location
    Cape Girardeau
    Posts
    4,861
    Thanks
    371
    Thanked 298 Times in 216 Posts
    90% of its purpose is for sound deadening. People have removed it before.

    Personally I'd replace it with a new factory piece or use some aftermarket heat shielding, but I don't think the car will catch fire or anything like that without it. You'll probably burn the paint behind the turbo though.

    Parting 6 speed
    Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace

  5. #5
    Forum User Feedback Score 0
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since

    Location
    Syracuse, ny
    Posts
    16
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
    Imagine how how your feet get now.....wait tell you remove that shit.....

  6. #6
    Forum User Feedback Score 13 (100%) Austin@STM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since

    Posts
    1,247
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 74 Times in 57 Posts
    You shouldn't notice a difference removing it, besides the fact that it will look a LOT better without it.

    It isn't held on there by anything but all the lines and crap in the way. Its fairly easy to remove even with everything on the firewall. I just used a set of pliers and ripped it out piece by piece, and just watch that you don't scratch the paint behind it.

    -Austin@STM

    -Ricer Evo 8: 8.75 @ 166 Best MPH of 167. Quickest 4G63 Powered Evo in The US!!!
    -Chris Cessna's Stock short block Evo 8: 9.76@150 Worlds Fastest Stock Motor Evo 8 and First Stock Block In The 9's!
    -Shawna's DD Evo 8: 9.97@143.88 Best MPH of 145 Full leather interior, A/C, navigation, stock brakes, cruisin 9's in style
    -Cory's Stock 7 bolt talon: 10.3@136 No crank walk here...
    -STM Stock turbo/motor Stealth RT: 10.95@127 Worlds Quyickest/Fastest and most powerful Stock turbo/ motor 3S
    -James STM built Pump gas Evo8 stock motor: 10.2@137 Stock long block, and only on pump gas!
    -Mike Faggiano Evo3 16g stock motor 1g 11.0@124 just a 16g knockin on 10's door.
    And the list goes on...

  7. #7
    Forum User Feedback Score 12 (100%)
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    1998

    Location
    Easton, Pennsylvania, United States
    Posts
    2,445
    Thanks
    57
    Thanked 168 Times in 128 Posts
    My feet stay nice and toasty without it.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
The 3000GT/Stealth/GTO Web History Project
3000gt.com
3000GT / Stealth International WWWboard Archive
Jim's (RED3KGT) Reststop
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Information and Resources
Team 3S
3000GT / Stealth / GTO Information
daveblack.net
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Clubs and Groups
Michigan 3S
MInnesota 3S
Wisconsin 3S
Iowa, Nebraska, Kansas 3S
North California 3000GT/Stealth
United Society of 3S Owners
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Forums
3000GT/Stealth International
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Event Pages
3S National Gathering
East Coast Gathering
Upper Mid-West Gathering
Blue Ridge Gathering