Relocating the battery to the rear.

[2fnloud]

Like my poll asks: "How do YOU do it"?

[UTRacerX9]

I ran two cables, and then added a secondary ground to the rear. I used 0 gauge cable... if I were to do it again though, using 0 gauge I would have just run the power wire. and grounded at the rear.

[sublime_whatigo]

The chassis is a much better ground than any cable. Provided you properly ground it under the hood and in the hatch.

[2fnloud]

I don't question my grounding techniques. In my Saturn I ran one of each, I was told by an Orion Tech to do it. His take was that newer cars' metal not the same grade / quality as older cars.

In my Stealth, I will run two 0 gauge but they will be both for power. This way if I need to jump into a H/O alternator for my sound system, the two runs can support the 220Amps without a voltage drop due to the resistance of the wire.

I already have Big Tyla's ground kit in 0 gauge, just need to get it installed....feel like coaching me at your place Matt?

[terrets]

What would be the point of a ground back to the bay? Just for the alternator and ECU/sensors? Everything else is grounded around the chassis isnt it? I wouldnt think it would make much, if any of a difference for stock electronics, if it was grounded in a different spot...also wouldnt it cause a bigger voltage drop if you had the long negative cable?

sublime - i had to re-read your post.First time i read it i was thinking you were saying ground a negative cable you ran. But now i get it. heh

[2fnloud]

As long as the proper gauge was used you would not drop voltage.

[a2j]

any issues with having battery in the back and race track rules and regulations?

[Polygon]

You really need to check with your track. But normally as long as you have it properly mounted most tracks are fine. It also needs to be a sealed battery. Now, it's when you start getting into different leagues of racing. They will require you have an easily accessible, externally mounted kill switch as well.

[2fnloud]

I don't track my car well except NG but my planned kill switch

[stealthII]

I ran two 0 gauge cables back from the engine to a Flaming River cut off switch and then to the Optima Red Top battery. One 0 gauge wire connects directly to the Mechman 250A alternator, and the other goes into a distribution block for the fusible link and any other powered items in the bay. I also grounded the battery with 0 gauge wires to the bolt where the spare tire hold down goes into. My alternator then has a direct ground to the chassis. I constantly see 14 volts at idle (probably due to the alternator as well) and I have a shit ton of electronics. I also have a couple of grounds from the engine to the chassis as well to might/might not help. So far, I have had no issues with this setup.