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Thread: tensioner wont hold tension, need help please

  1. #21
    94 3500gt vr2? verified
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    i agree. i've tried the tensioner pulley tool and suggested torque settings. i've done this a few times and it's usually a little off. the tool is helpful for setting the tensioner pulley, but i think being able to slide the shipping pin in and out before and after a few rotations is much more accurate.

    any luck with this?

    my best guess would be that you had the pin removed when the tensioner was removed
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  2. #22
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    I never do it by torque, I always adjust so the pin is loose. Then rotate engine, let sit 5-10 minutes and make sure pin is still loose. And when I say loose I mean I can flick it and it spins.

    -Chris

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrGonzo View Post
    I wondered that too but I thing the pulley and belts might be in the way. I'd also be worried about getting crap into the lower end with the hole cut there

    Anyone got a pic of the lower end with everything installed besides the cover??
    almost...
    with a smaller crank pulley you can see the circle above it. this is where the tensioner pulley is. seems like it could work, but would be a tight fit

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by n2nsanity View Post
    almost...
    with a smaller crank pulley you can see the circle above it. this is where the tensioner pulley is. seems like it could work, but would be a tight fit
    Sorry, but that is CLEAN!!!
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  5. #25
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    Just had this issue today. Had a guy that I had sold parts too want me to do his 60k for him.

    I drive to his place and he has all the new parts there ready to go. Get the old stuff off, put the new stuff on, line everything up, tension the belt. Its golden. Pull the pin, extension is perfect.

    Go to turn the crank over twice to make sure everything is still lined up and I hear THWANG.

    Fucking cam jumped. THWANG another cam jumps.

    I look up at the tensioner and the mother fucker was pushed all the way back in. Pull it off and the hydraulic fluid was already leaking out.

    It was so bad that I could depress the rod with my thumb. After calling around to parts stores with no luck at locating another tensioner he made the call to use his old one on the car.

    Why can't the DOHC's have a simple spring tensioner like the SOHC's have?

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  6. #26
    well i still havent found a solution to my problem, so i made one. i took my old tensioner, put the pin back in it, jb welded the shit out of it. an its holding perfect tenssion so far lol. i check if just about everyday. but these hydraulic tensioners are the worst stupid ass idea ever.

    hopefully my jbweld holds

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by leggomieggo10 View Post
    well i still havent found a solution to my problem, so i made one. i took my old tensioner, put the pin back in it, jb welded the shit out of it. an its holding perfect tenssion so far lol. i check if just about everyday. but these hydraulic tensioners are the worst stupid ass idea ever.

    hopefully my jbweld holds
    Bad idea IMO.

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  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by stealthee View Post
    I look up at the tensioner and the mother fucker was pushed all the way back in. It was so bad that I could depress the rod with my thumb.
    Had that happen to me as well. Luckily I checked it BEFORE installing, but we typically ASSUME new parts to be good. <sigh> Its just a SIGN OF THE TIMES. Everyone is quick to make something cheaper than it was before and of course do it with no long term testing so it fails almost instantly. I even read about a guy with a NEW distributor in his Toyota and it still wouldnt run, but a used one from the junkyard cured his problem! Even OEM parts arent immune to this. Look at all the oil pump problems that popped up when people put new ones in for their 130k.

    Check whatever you are installing over CAREFULLY no matter what it is.

    -SP

  9. #29
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    I'd just go with a solid tensioner and a kevlar belt

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