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Thread: 600 AWHP daily driver

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    600 AWHP daily driver

    I will probably jinx my car, but I think my DD project is done. Engine is a fully built 3.0 with my 4340 rods, my nitrided crank, Ross racing pistons and locally ported/polished heads. Also have AEM/FMIC/Dual Walbros/680 injectors and meth injection(100% at 10 psi boost). Just replaced 19Ts with EVO III 16G TD05s and took the car for tuning at Topspeed, in Alpharetta, GA. 598.25 ft-lb torque and 608.75 AWHP. Car has 600+ AWHP all the way from 5200 RPM to stock redline at 7200 and 500+ ft-lb of torque from 4500 to 6500 RPM. This is on pump gas at 23 psi boost. On the 140 mile trip home, at 80 mph on cruise control and AC putting out 48 degree air, the car got 20 mpg. Absolutely no coolant push, no ignition blow out. There is probably a little more available if I push the boost to 25 or more, but this is going to be my wife's DD, so we kept it a little on the safe side. What a blast this thing is to drive.

    I want to add that I think one of the biggest factors in the ignition system is the addition of a MechMan 220 amp alternator with the adjustable voltage harness. I set my voltage at 15.5 V at the battery terminals, and I think that made all the difference. I have MSD coils/wires and an HKS DLI, but previously had issues above 21 psi boost. No more.

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    One fix at a time verified Feedback Score 4 (100%) TurboSinceBirth's Avatar
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    It would have been more impressive if that was on the stock ignition, but I see that you have an HKS DLI which makes more sense. They're a good product and I won't go with an other ignition amplifier. Making sure all your ignition system is working well goes a long ways. I don't see why a lot of people don't check/replace the wires, plugs, coils, PTU, alternator, etc. but instead start throwing aftermarket parts at it.

    Your wife must be pretty crazy to drive a 600AWHP car. Lol. I know a lot of women that wouldn't do that. It sounds like a well setup car and there's more left it in if she ever feels the need for more power.
    95 RT/TT Billet TD04s E70, DW1000cc injectors, ARC-2 with 92mm maf, 3SX fuel rail loop, hotwired Walbro 416/485, 3" FMIC, single small Krank vent, DR 3.5" downpipe and cat-back, DNP 02 housings, Hallman Pro MBC, BlackStealth LCDBC, AEM wideband, AEM oil pressure, Apexi S1 coilovers with SCE EVO 8/9 adapters, 3SX adjustable control arms, Spec 3+ clutch, Maximal solids/3SX poly motor mounts, Setrab custom SMOC, stock motor 127k miles, stock drivetrain.

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    Forum User verified Feedback Score 2 (100%) Boomer3000's Avatar
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    Post up some pics of that bad boy!!
    1991 Stealth RT/TT
    Mods- Greddy Type S and a spun bearing.

    [Yesterday 11:43 PM] R/T93 : Im reading hulk comics on Youtube
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    Member Not Verified Feedback Score 7 (100%) mb3000's Avatar
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    Subscribed.

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    White car is mine, which has the engine in it now. The yellow one is my wife's. I'll be transplanting everything into her car so we can take it to the NG. Her car is pearl yellow 95 VR4 with beige interior and no sunroof. It's 1 of 7 made with that exact combination. It has new 19" rims with black spokes and Intrax lowering springs on it now. Really looks nice.








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    1st ever COTM and COTY verified Feedback Score 9 (100%) green-lantern's Avatar
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    Do you know anything about this. I got it from a job I did and I can't find much info on them. I really didn't get any feedback when I asked before.

    Quote Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy View Post
    I bet she smells of old mustard and sawdust.
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    Forum User Feedback Score 0 jbuhrman's Avatar
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    So whats the plan for your car after the engine gets placed in her's milt?

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    Australia verified Feedback Score 0 GTOX's Avatar
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    More info on this adjustable voltage harness?

    I have the same 220A Mechman. Is it safe to run 15.5V like that?
    Kangaroo

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    The Panda Not Verified Feedback Score 0 vr4tune's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by green-lantern View Post


    Do you know anything about this. I got it from a job I did and I can't find much info on them. I really didn't get any feedback when I asked before.
    That's a mercury magnetic new volt. It slices in before the ptu amping it up to 18 volts.

    Ported heads, IPS 2mm oversized valves, Delta 264/272 cams, 3SX High rev valve springs, 3SX cam gears,
    Merkel 6g72 3.5L BILLET crank stroker (going in this summer), 3sx poly motor mounts
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    The 15.5 V point was based on Mechman's tech input. It is about all the 12V battery will take. As for the whole car, there are no components I know of that are not designed for 18V full time operation. Mechman has several customers using 14V batteries with the alternator set at 16.5V without issues. Above about 18V, individual components start to fail. Usually the headlight bulbs are the first to go. While not all electrical systems are created equal, I'm told by reputable, knowledgeable people in the field (not just MechMan) that virtually all OEM systems will operate just fine at 16.5V with little or no loss of longevity. Of course, nothing is guaranteed once you modify outside the "stock box", but that's just part of hotrodding.

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