Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 17

Thread: overheating problem

  1. #1
    Forum User Not Verified Feedback Score 3 (100%)
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Owner Since
    2007

    Location
    Midland,MI
    Posts
    175
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post

    overheating problem

    Went to pure tuning in toledo and was running good on the dyno. But it started overheating and blowing coolant out of the overflow tank. So i took it home and re torqued the head bolts and took it for a drive. It boosted really good and seemed to not be blowing coolant but after I got on it for a while then stopped, it started overheating gradually. What do you think the problem is? I put somestock heads on it after the old ones got screwed up from a valve breaking. I put MLS gaskets on it, torqued them in sequence and in increments up to 94 ft lbs. When I got back home I let it sit and it overheated again then shut it off and put some coolant in it and it took half the jug, wtf, I'm at my boiling point with this car and have dumped way too much money into it for it to just sit around. Help would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Forum User verified Feedback Score 1 (100%)
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    August 2003

    Location
    Uniontown
    Posts
    494
    Thanks
    8
    Thanked 12 Times in 11 Posts
    I had to run mine for hours, after I replaced my water pump. I had a hell of a air pocket. But now seems to be fine. Just get one of the funnels that attach to the water neck, and fill it, and let it run. You can keep the throttle at about 2k.

  3. #3
    Forum User Not Verified Feedback Score 3 (100%)
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Owner Since
    2007

    Location
    Midland,MI
    Posts
    175
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
    I blead the system last night and pressure tested it and it held 20psi in the cooling system. Maybe there was a huge bubble.

  4. #4
    Forum User verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) Amphiron's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since

    Posts
    513
    Blog Entries
    1
    Thanks
    8
    Thanked 12 Times in 10 Posts
    Looks like your cars the one thats at its boiling point! da dum chii... Is it over heating anymore?

  5. #5
    Forum User verified Feedback Score 0 Checkered vr4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Owner Since

    Posts
    148
    Thanks
    11
    Thanked 8 Times in 6 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by whitedevilstealth View Post
    Went to pure tuning in toledo and was running good on the dyno. But it started overheating and blowing coolant out of the overflow tank. So i took it home and re torqued the head bolts and took it for a drive. It boosted really good and seemed to not be blowing coolant but after I got on it for a while then stopped, it started overheating gradually. What do you think the problem is? I put somestock heads on it after the old ones got screwed up from a valve breaking. I put MLS gaskets on it, torqued them in sequence and in increments up to 94 ft lbs. When I got back home I let it sit and it overheated again then shut it off and put some coolant in it and it took half the jug, wtf, I'm at my boiling point with this car and have dumped way too much money into it for it to just sit around. Help would be appreciated.
    did you figure out this problem?

  6. #6
    Forum User Feedback Score 1 (100%)
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Owner Since

    Posts
    284
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
    our cooling system (fan wise) sucks, they have the thermal switches that activate the fans to come on (not controlled by ecu), on the bottom of the radiator. This means fans don't come on till the whole dam radiator is hot as hell.

    i installed a spal fan controller and fans. no overheating then.
    or you could just at least weld some bungs into the cross over tube and move your sensors their and you should at least have your fans come on the correct way.

  7. #7
    One day....it will be on 4 wheels. supporter Feedback Score 2 (100%)
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2004

    Posts
    1,822
    Thanks
    154
    Thanked 37 Times in 30 Posts
    the Gen 1's have the bungs in the radiator...Gen 2 and above take it from the water neck.
    Building a House, Car Mods on hold!
    1996 GTO, Owner since 2003.

  8. #8
    Forum User Feedback Score 1 (100%)
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Owner Since

    Posts
    284
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
    Davids car was a 1993 vr4 still had bungs in radiator with thermal switches. The ecu sees temp in the water cross over pipe. also the guage temp is in the cross over and another sensor too.

    but i dont know why they didnt put thermal sensors on their as well.

    did they change that in 1994?

  9. #9
    The one. The only. verified Feedback Score 14 (100%) stealthee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    August 28, 2002

    Location
    SWPA
    Posts
    4,067
    Thanks
    177
    Thanked 697 Times in 527 Posts
    94's have the gauge sensor and the fan sensor in the water housing.

    [06-05, 19:29] OhioSpyderman: Brian, finding a woman is NOT the answer, you need to shop for a good VACUUM

  10. #10
    Forum User verified Feedback Score 0 Checkered vr4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Owner Since

    Posts
    148
    Thanks
    11
    Thanked 8 Times in 6 Posts
    so you guys think this is totally a cooling capacity thing?

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •