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Thread: So I hotwired my fuel pump and then.......

  1. #31
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    You can test the MFI relay independent of the car. Pull your battery and grab some spare wire a couple feet long. When connecting and disconnecting the - wire on the battey terminal the relay should click.
    []
    [1][2][3][4][5]
    [6][7][8][9][10]

    + to 10, - to 8
    + to 9, - to 6
    + to 3, - to 7

    Edit: Here is a diagram, along with a picture of what the inside of the relay looks like. (for those who might be curious)


    Last edited by mb3000; 04-14-2011 at 09:20 PM.

  2. #32
    im off to test it today.
    I rechecked my wiring, the rewire is exactly as described by the site I linked to.
    Could the rewire really have blown my stock MFI?

  3. #33
    Ugh I wired it up like shown and of course it clicks when connected and disconnected.
    Grrrr. Wish it was just broken, easy fix.

    Well time to look into what else it could be!

  4. #34
    checked everything again, adjusted my TPS which was a tad off, finally got around to taking care of it.
    Car just cranks and cranks away.

    Just one thing though, on my MFI relay the connector in the 1 spot is empty. No metal there. Its the same part number as the 3000gt though.
    Anyway, mine clicks fine when wired up like the diagram.
    If I give my fuel pump 12v and try and start the car will that work?

  5. #35
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    They don't have a 1 spot connector, at least all the ones I've seen dont.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92EuroDiamante View Post
    checked everything again, adjusted my TPS which was a tad off, finally got around to taking care of it.
    Car just cranks and cranks away.

    Just one thing though, on my MFI relay the connector in the 1 spot is empty. No metal there. Its the same part number as the 3000gt though.
    Anyway, mine clicks fine when wired up like the diagram.
    If I give my fuel pump 12v and try and start the car will that work?
    If you manually provide power direct to the pump then yes the car should start.

  7. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by GTOJOE View Post
    If you manually provide power direct to the pump then yes the car should start.
    I should have asked if it was safe as well haha, I figured it would work but I dont need to blow something else out.

    Quote Originally Posted by steve68 View Post
    Well of course it clicks, that's the coil tested. Now all you have to do is test the contacts.

    Steve
    Ok, and how do I do that. Do i connect and disconnect each ground wire one by one.
    I can tell the unit isnt functioning like it was. Before it would click a few seconds after I turned the car off and left the key in the on position. It doesnt do that any longer.
    Ive got another unit on order but I want to know if this is expected to happen when you hotwire.

  8. #38
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    If it's similar to a 3/s than this might help. Starting on page 169.
    http://www.3sx.com/faq/manuals/Servi...6-Volume-1.pdf

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92EuroDiamante View Post
    I should have asked if it was safe as well haha, I figured it would work but I dont need to blow something else out.
    Perfectly safe.
    Last edited by GTOJOE; 04-20-2011 at 04:28 AM.

  10. #40
    Ok so I connected the fuel pump hotline (right after the stock relay) to 12v and started it up. It started up like a champ but then the rpms bounced from 1k to about 1.5k and it repeated that for a short amount of time. The stock relay began to click and then it died.

    Bad relay then?
    Im getting my new one on monday so I will know I just dont want to fry the new one.

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