So I hotwired my fuel pump and then.......

[TUFFTR]

I know that
but if I'm gonna be cranking away I want to make sure my battery is charged and that its getting the most charge possible in the 10 seconds before it stalls .
The stock alternators on the diamantes are not very good. What are the TRs equipped with from the factory?

TR SOHC 12v's came with an 80A, Verada's came with a 90A, But I've got the 110A on the DOHC engine. Remember at idle the alternator is hardly putting any charge back into the battery, and full charge at around 3000RPM. At cranking RPM of 300RPM thereabouts your alternator will be putting in 1/100th of what the starter is taking from the battery! My Diamante 30RS has the 110A, from the looks of it never been rebuilt and on 260K's

ANYWAY!
So, trouble shooting procedure....You use the standard relay (all other hotwired wires are still in tact) and it starts clicking, so it sounds like its dropping earth constantly. I had this happen to a central locking relay when i fed power into a prong I wasn't supposed to, had to get another relay.
I would grab another relay first (if you want a few spare I have some here you can have, although halfway across the world:P) and go from there. It is possible somehow the relay is damaged.

[92EuroDiamante]

Nice choice, I used the shell from a 3/S to upgrade mine as well.
Definitely, would be pulling way more to start it than it would be making while starting.

Yeah, some guy by me has one for 30 bucks, pretty reasonable.
Would adding a relay after the MFI really damage it like that? The MFI seems toast. Even when I hook everything back up stock and eliminate the hotwiring relay (other than the 8g wire that now goes to the fuel pump), the stock MFI clicks like crazy and the same problem happens.

I also swapped out a 30A relay I was using for nitrous with the one that was in the hotwire circuit just to see what would happen and the same thing happened. Its definitely the MFI. I can hear and feel it click.

I hate when things break right after a related part is modified. makes me hesitant to just replace them because it could just happen again.

[Hans@GZP]

Check your engine computer.

[GTOJOE]

Does your stock system have a unit like the 3/s that provides low power at idle then full power at revs? perhaps the system is switching between low power and high power and causing the relay to switch on and off? when doing the hotwire on a 3s part of the process is to bypass the resistor [low voltage circuit] so the relay has constant 12 volts.

[92EuroDiamante]

Does your stock system have a unit like the 3/s that provides low power at idle then full power at revs? perhaps the system is switching between low power and high power and causing the relay to switch on and off? when doing the hotwire on a 3s part of the process is to bypass the resistor [low voltage circuit] so the relay has constant 12 volts.

Yes, it is the exact same unit.
When looking up the part number on the unit, everything that popped up for sale was off of 3/s.

As far as wiring it, I wired it the exact way shown on all the instruction sites/wiki. Double checked it after it failed too.

Could I have used the wrong relay?
I want to figure that out because the stock MFI is definitely screwed and I dont want to go through that again

[92EuroDiamante]

This is the way I wired it

crap, seems it wont let me post the pic.

here is the link
http://www.stealth316.com/images/fprw-schematic.gif

[RL7]

Did you wire from the battery or from the MPI relay? If you think the relay you used is bad, you may as well replace it with a new one. If you wired it to the MPI relay, you may have pulled more amperage through it than it wanted and fried something.

[92EuroDiamante]

Did you wire from the battery or from the MPI relay? If you think the relay you used is bad, you may as well replace it with a new one. If you wired it to the MPI relay, you may have pulled more amperage through it than it wanted and fried something.

I wired the aftermarket relay to the battery.
Sorry if I wasnt clear, since there are two relays involved.
The MPI relay is the one that is malfunctioning and going nuts. It does this in stock configuration with the hotwire relay removed and with the hotwire relay in place as well.

I just dont want to put the new one in and fry it too if I did something wrong.

Hopefully my computer is ok like Hanz mentioned. Anyone local want to try my MFI/MPI relay and see if it works for them. Then I would know if my ECU is fried.

[Steve '92ES]

I don't mean to be argumentative here but I'm getting really confused.
You say this is an NA, but that you have the hi/low relay? NA's don't have that, only the turbo's. (at least with 3S's, I don't know about Diamante's)
On the other hand if you DO have that second relay both the hi and the low wires are Black/blue.
I can't tell from you're diagram exactly what you wired to, because the colors are the same.
Also, you say

Thinking it was the aftermarket hotwiring relay that was clicking, I removed that and wired the fuel wire to the stock relay.

Does this mean you returned everything back exactly to stock, or did you wire it in somehow with your own wiring?

So, to sum up,
This is an NA with a hi/low relay?
Which relay did you wire to?
Where, exactly, did you tap the Black/blue wire?
You returned it to dead stock, and it still has the problem?

[92EuroDiamante]

Sorry,
I thought you were asking if it had the same relays as the 3s and mentioned the hi low so I said yes. It has the same relay as the NA 3s.
part number E8t07871
Yes that is what that means. I removed the relay and connected the wire to the fuel pump back to part number E8t07871.
The only difference from stock at that point would be the non stock pump, and the non stock wire to the pump.

I wired to the MFI/MPI, part number E8t07871. Was this my mistake?

Yes I returned the wiring to stock and the relay E8t07871 still goes nuts.