These silicone radiator hoses wont stop leaking

**q2418130103p** · 04-12-2011, 07:27 AM

Originally Posted by steve68

That's why the olds 215 engine was a total failure.
The yanks sold it to the poms to be a Rover 3.5. Even the poms refused to put antifreeze in them.
All modern Jap engines have aluminium heads. Iron blocks /aluminium heads act as an electrolytic cell, one metal is the positive electrode, the other is the negative electrode and they're bolted together. Put water in the cooling system, it's called electrolyte. It doesn't take long for the water to turn brown, the top of the block starts rusting on the gasket surface(as well as everything else) then the headgasket starts leaking, first sign being the overflow bottle that needs topping up.
That's why higher pressure caps are fitted. It's to mask the problem until it gets worse and hoses start leaking, hoses pop, then the radiator top tank pops.
Obviously the stock radiator isn't up to the job, time for an aluminium "ricer" one.

Then to fix it properly after all the damage is done , the block needs resurfacing to remove the rust, rust being porous.

Steve

lol, you nearly described my steps exactly, except I am not using straight water. So I suppose those steps are about the same for any cooling issue.

Although I didn't realize that a higher PSI cap was a stop-gap measure, I just thought it was perdy. And my coolant isnt brown, yet.

I am not sure if I will call an aluminum radiator 'ricer' though, I dont think a larger radiator core can really be considered a bad thing. Now... if the change is prompted on account of an FMIC, like mine is, then you probably have a case.

BTW, how can the radiator tank pop, doesn't it have a direct vent to atmosphere?

**q2418130103p** · 04-12-2011, 07:32 AM

Originally Posted by steve68

The easy way out is to throw in a bottle of chemiweld, that might fix it for a couple of months, then you could even pass it off to some young, innocent, unsuspecting new owner. That's if you don't want to fix it.

Steve

Hey Steve,
I am not sure to whom you are referring, I believe that the one guy to mention that he was running straight water was doing so without any leaking issue like I was referring to.

**q2418130103p** · 04-25-2011, 07:25 AM

I dont remember if I mentioned this or not, but the old coolant drained out its usual yellow/green color, so it was burnt.

I went ahead and flushed through some distilled water, just because I dont like the yellow stuff. I picked up some regular uncut sierra stuff to top it off later.

I put on thermalflex hoses, and the factory radiator cap.

If was only around 70°F here yesterday, I dont remember what the idle temp got up to, I believe it was just below 80°C. Whatever it was, it was just hot enough for the 1 rad fan to kick in, and just cold enough that the rad fan would only run for 5 seconds.

I am going to have to wait until it gets hotter around here to really see what is up.

**J. Fast** · 04-25-2011, 05:22 PM

Originally Posted by zelstin

Okay Drmbldr, J.Fast, Steve68's_keeper, or whatever you call yourself these days. I promise to stop acting like a little troll in the wake of horrible advice.

BTW I learned all this shit from working on performance cars. That is, when I wasn't pretending to be an airborne ranger.

DAM, I missed your post...

LOL, I'll have to remind myself I was pretending to be an airborne ranger when I exited a perfectly good aircraft with a combat loadout 27 times while assigned to 2nd Ranger Batt you keyboard racing fuckhead!

**DocWalt** · 04-25-2011, 05:35 PM

How about we chill out and take this thread back to where it belongs.

You need t-bolt clamps or lined worm clamps like so:

**sublime_whatigo** · 04-25-2011, 08:31 PM

^Good clamps!

Just took my car out for the first time with the new samco hoses and stock clamps. No leaks, you guys are doing it wrong

**q2418130103p** · 05-29-2011, 08:08 PM

Update:

I put on some better silicone hoses, so far they are holding with regular hose clamps. The old hoses worked at first too, so that doesnt really say much. I also put on a stock cap and I am running ~50/50 sierra and distilled water.

The hi temp today was around 85F. The hottest I saw on my gauge was around 192F.

In case anyone is interested here are the fan temps from teh manual.
Rad Fan Off->On @ 178F-192F
Ran Fan On->Off @ 171F
AC Fan Off->On @ 196-210F
AC Fan On->Off @ 189F

Some older posts on other forums have different ranges for these, much higher ranges, like 240F for one of the fans. I am not sure where those numbers came from, but I am going to stick with the manual.

As far as I know, the AC fan never came on, so either its temp probe is defective or inaccurate or the car never hit the required range.

I cannot actually find an 'operating range' in the manual.

One thing I thought was odd is that the temps were higher on the highway than at idle. On other cars I usually see this the other way around, the increased air flow at highway speed usually reduces the temp (assuming you are driving at a sane cruising speed). I assume this is a result of having an FMIC. This really bothers me. Does anyway have any suggests for this? Even if you suggestion is to ditch the FMIC, I am interested in hearing your story.