Project WDE Talon

[BigTyla]

for rounded bolt.

Cut head off, pull T-case and use vice grips

or

Weld or force on a socket with a hammer.

I'm one step ahead of you. I chose #2. The problem is time and the fact that I don't have access to a welder. The bolt is on there so tight that the xfer case needs to be mounted when applying torque to the bolt. Best course of action would be to remove xfer case, take it to a shop to weld a socket on it, then put it back on the car and go to town.

[J-Groove]

Life does that to you. Only good thing is I know once you get settled back down you will be able to ramp up your build again.

As for the bolt, I agree with Blackmount, welding of forcing on a socket with a hammer will work miracles.

-John

[BigTyla]

My wife went up to Birmingham with her sister and parents to attend a girls only wedding shower this weekend and took the boys with her. That left me here to work on my car with some help from my father!

I meant to take pictures but I never got around to it. I was in the zone. I was able to replace the rear brake rotors and install new pads. This took all six hours I had available Saturday because the rear calipers have a piston that has to be turned and they had been sitting for so long that they were not cooperating as they should have. On Sunday we were able to bleed the brakes. I found a leak at the front passenger side line that I had installed and we got that fixed. I'll keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't leak anymore. After that, I checked the rear diff and transmission fluid levels because I didn't want to assume they were full. They were spot on.

Then I moved to trying to get that transfer case bolt off. We tried to use this massive pipe wrench and it just would not budge. Then we hammered a socket on there REALLY well. The damn thing just sat there and laughed at us. So I said "screw it" and unbolted it and filled it from the top and reinstalled it. I'll try to get it off again when I can get the car on a lift for more leverage. I can't believe someone would be so idiodic as to tighten the bolt THAT much.

So as it sits the car ought to be ready to move under its own power, though I'd hardly call it road worthy. I wanted to start it up just to move it for the first time ever but I didn't realize I had left the battery connected to the car this whole time. It's dead as a doornail so I'll have to get it charged for the millionth time before I try to start it.

[IPD]

you're an hour and a half away from me...

unfortunately, i'm mostly cooped up with work details & homework on the weekends.

[BigTyla]

you're an hour and a half away from me...

unfortunately, i'm mostly cooped up with work details & homework on the weekends.

Are you back in GA?

[IPD]

in montgomery, actually.

[VR4Rob]

in montgomery, actually.

My deepest condolences.

[IPD]

eh...i'll be gone in about a month. i still think the DOD should BRAC the shit out of this hellhole.

[BigTyla]

If only there were a way you could get out earlier...

[BigTyla]

I haven't updated this in a long time.

I got to work on the car a couple of weeks ago. I installed the downpipe, the crossmember, cleaned the air filter, charged the battery, and started it up. Still smoking like a chimney. I'm going to do a compression and leakdown test again soon to cover my bases, but I've already ordered a new PCV valve and xfer case plug from STM.

I did actually move the car under its own power for the first time ever. Reversed it for 10 feet. The clutch engages right at the floor which is no good. Going to have to get a brand new pedal assembly, which sucks because that's what I should have done to begin with while it was out of the car. Afraid to try and actually drive it on the road like that since the transmission grinds if I try to engage it anywhere else but on the floor.