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Thread: Project WDE Talon

  1. #541
    Relax, it's just rocket science!
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    Quote Originally Posted by AdamVR4 View Post
    How rounded is the drain plug? Have you tried using vice grips? Drill and tap the plug for a left hand thread bolt? Congrats on the new job!
    Tried vice grips. The bolt is ON there.

    I've thought of cutting into the face of the bolt to maybe get a flat-tipped screwdriver head in the slot and get after it with a torque wrench. The torque wrench with the proper socket on it before the bolt was rounded would not get the bolt off with the transfer case off the car. We decided to mount it to the car and then try so we could get more leverage, but it is like the previous owner welded it in or something. I've never seen anything like it. Might have to end up filling it up without overfilling it too much, drive it to a shop, have them weld a socket on there, and then try to take it off.

  2. #542
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    Congrats on the new job.
    1993 RT/TT
    1992 GVR4 474/1000
    1998 Montero

  3. #543
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    Got to work on the car last night. I ordered a stock turbo oil feed line with the banjo bolts to put on as well as the stock oil return bolts for the oil pan. Did you know that those are supposed to have crush washers to seal the flange?

    I had to take off the turbo to get my AN fitting off the oil feed portion, so I decided to look around in the head by taking the exhaust manifold off as well. Sure enough, the exhaust ports on the head are covered in oil - all except the port closest to the timing belt.

    This is very discouraging. I have a hard time believing that I installed the valve stem seals incorrectly. All you do is press them on the valve guides firmly. Not really a lot to mess up. Maybe the Felpro valve stem seals just suck?

    I'm leaving Huntsville for good early next week, so I won't have any time to fix this problem regardless. I HAVE to get some gear oil in this transfer case so I can roll the car onto a tow rig. I'll just have to take it off and put oil in it from the back. Then I'd like to get the rear brake rotors and pads on and get some brake fluid in the system so the brakes will actually work.

    There's no worse feeling than doing everything right to fix an issue only to have the same exact problem.

  4. #544
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    Sorry to hear that man Nothing like doing shit multiple times, even though you did it all right...
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  5. #545
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    YOu could just push the car onto the trailer?

  6. #546
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    Quote Originally Posted by vroom4 View Post
    YOu could just push the car onto the trailer?
    I still need to put gear oil in the transfer case to do that. Don't want the gears rubbing with no gear oil.

    Alternatively, I could disconnect the transfer case and tie up the driveshaft somehow.

  7. #547
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    Is it ok or black Goo looking stuff ? I have been finding and reading that poor ethanol.blends will cause it , it feels oily but thick , It's especially prominent in e85 cars

    Sent from my HTC Hero S using Tapatalk 2

  8. #548
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    It's pitch black with the consistency of oil. I'm running 93 octane.

    I posted my troubles on DSMTuners and the majority said it was definitely a valve stem seal issue, but one recent poster showed me a picture of his exhaust ports and manifold after he discovered a problem with his PCV system. His picture looks EXACTLY like my engine. I checked my PCV valve before installing it and I thought it operated fine, but I'm going to get a new one since they are so cheap. If that turns out to be the issue I will cry tears of joy. Now that this issue has been suggested, I'm convinced that this is what it is. An overpressured crankcase would exhibit these exact symptoms and if the PCV valve wasn't letting enough air vent out of the crankcase, it could force oil out of a myriad of places.

  9. #549
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    Good luck Ty Probably should go OE on that part. I'm pretty sure there were issues from aftermarket ones on the 3S

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  10. #550
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    just dril out the pcv valve and try it to see if the problem goes awat?

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