Cam seal replacement

[hotrodln]

So i rebuilt the engine in my son's VR-4 last year. The car runs great, but has always left dripps of oil on the driver's side right under the middle of the pulley area. The cam gears are throwing oil under the covers, and the cam gears have some oil setting there on the back of the pulleys when it's turned off. I am assuming this is the cam seals leaking, BUT was also wondering if something else could be leaking oil onto the belt and it eventually works it's way up there....i recently replaced both valve cover gaskets and used some rtv on them just to be sure.....still the same puddles.....so now i've purchased new cam seals straight from the dealer.....last ones were part of a gasket "set" so who knows where they were made...the big question is this" can i pullout the old seals with a seal puller, and reinstall the new seals, WITHOUT removing the valve covers?" front valve cover is really no big deal, but back one's gonna take more time.....any thoughts are appreciated.

[MADMarc]

I'm in for the answer here. I am leaking on the other side, though, and just need the time to swap the seal out. I believe for those, as they are on the timing side, you have to pull the cam gear and valve cover to get at it but don't quote me.

[hotrodln]

i know the cam gear has to come off, but i've read that some guys think it's better to "push" the seal in rather than take the top cap off and then insert it....so i'm looking for some views on this from guys that have done it before....

[B-Man]

I actually just did these so here's my input.

Cam gear need to come off.
RTV the outside of them (cap/head side). I decided not to and I'm kicking myself for it, had to go back and do it again.
Press them in with the cap on, don't torque them and they will slide in easier, but that's the way the manual shows it and they also press against a lip/groove that stops them from going too far in and helps seal.
Since you have to pull the cam gears off, covers have to come off anyways to hold the cam while taking the cam gear bolts out.
It's best to do with a 60/120k if you're about due.

I think it took me and another experienced person about 7hrs to do them and a 60k not rushing.

[Roybatty]

It was a b!tch getting the old seals out. I manufactured a tool from an old flat head. Recommend getting some tool for removing seals. Agree with above comment for when & valve cover removal necessary.

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[hotrodln]

Thanks for the input! i was planning on using my impact wrench to remove the cam gear bolt, while holding the pulley from turning using a strap wrench.......just trying to NOT remove the rear valve cover....i've taken the upper intake off more times than i can count in the last year! I want to get back to restoring my other cars!

[Primus101]

I recently replaced a cam that someone had obviously torqued with the cam gear jammed(VC left on), the cam dowel hole had elongated. just by chance that I spotted it-
I wouldnt push the seals in as far as you can, .090" -.100" in from head surface- just past the champhered area. There is a oil pressure blow-off drain under the headside cam journal that you may end up blocking and applying oil pressure to the seal....once the seal is out, I would try running a wire through this drain (inline with the cam) as it could be plugged and causing your woes.
You running a factory PCV valve?

[hotrodln]

yes we have the pcv hose hooked up.........how about that bent dowel pin? how do you "hold" the cam from spinning if you dont' hold the pulley somehow?

[B-Man]

Using an impact you run the risk of jumping the timing. To do it right, you MUST take the VC off. There is a hex section on the cam to hold while you loosen the cam gear bolt. You just use an open ended wrench to hold the cam in place.

[hotrodln]

ok thanks