Always do a pull test when using crimp on terminals, don't assume it's solid.
Always do a pull test when using crimp on terminals, don't assume it's solid.
this is a great thread!
coming from someone with 2 transfer case lockups i'll have to chime in and say to check your tc fluid a few times per year. they can leak in a way that the theres no puddle.
i only work on my car when i feel like it and at first sign of fatigue i stop working. i find stepping back helps the ideas flow if your stumped.
save all your old parts, for the broke ass guys.
if i have a choice, i go oem.
you guys got the rest,take your time, follow instructions(read them over and over till it pops),use the right tool,make leverage your bitch,pb blaster is your friend...
When PB blaster fails you...you are stuck here>>>
The Art of Extraction In a recent adventure with rear motor mount bolt breaking, I could only get the helicoil to work.
91 AWD TT
K&N FIPK, Precats gutted, Test Pipe, Blitz DSBC, Walbro 255, Vacuum reduction, SM3, MMCd, Krank Vents, 3SX Aluminum Crank Pulley, Aluminum 2PC DS, MAFT Pro (AFC mode atm).
To do list: Need to check electronic timing, install FP hotwire, install PS poly MM, RUACAs, Setrab oil cooler, Dejon Y-pipe, 3.5 GM Mas, FIC 650ccs & 13Ts.
Don't buy the cheap substitute, get the "good" one, or the one you really want. It will end up costing you more in the end if you try to cut corners.
I am guilty of buying parts, realizing they don't meet my expectations, then end up buying a replacement that was what I originally was going to get. Time x2 + Money x1.5 = me kicking my own ass for cutting corners.
Give yourself time to do what you need to. Far too many times I find myself cutting corners because I need my car running by x:xx on x/x.
Learn to say Fuck it and walk away when things aren't going your way.
'
1991 Stealth RT/TT
Mods- Greddy Type S and a spun bearing.
[Yesterday 11:43 PM] R/T93 : Im reading hulk comics on Youtube
[Yesterday 11:45 PM] R/T93 : he has to fight the silver surfer hand to hand...
OhioSpyderman:why do you have to pee on my wheaties Dave?
don't overestimate your own abilities. making your own parts--especially if you have ZERO experience at it--is nowhere near as simple as you'd think. "making" your own headers is not something that a rookie is going to excel at. unless you have the desire to build a manufacturing skillset for the express purpose of marketing a product; you're much better off just buying from an existing vendor.
loc-tite can be you friend--if you use it properly.
buying a complete brake-line replacement system > retro-fitting the existing OEM one. having bought 3sx's line kit; i wish i'd just ripped out everything. i never did manage to get the rears apart--too much danger of destroying the fittings, as they were all rusted shut.
if you end up with tail-lights that perpetually seem to fill with water, you can drill a small drain hole in the corner; rather than buying a new set.
No mechanic or shop is going to care about your car as much as you do. They will cut corners if possible, and may rush to get it out the door. Always do all work yourself if possible, you'll end up knowing more about your car, and know that the job was done right.
Before starting a job, gather as many of the tools together that you will need. It will save you a lot of time if you aren't always running back to the toolbox/garage for another tool.
Research. 99.9% of all mods you can do have been done by someone before. Research and make sure you know any potential pitfalls before starting the job.
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