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Thread: FMIC (PMP) Install - mounting the core

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    Forum User Not Verified Feedback Score 2 (100%) jba3's Avatar
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    FMIC (PMP) Install - mounting the core

    I can tackle the pipes no problem, and have them all mocked up and loosely clamped. I have a 99 front bumper, and I plan to cut out the top black area for better flow. I was looking at the options for mounting, and the one that seems most likely is drilling 2 holes from the top and bolting it to the frame. I think I can use the 2 brackets bent 90* and drill holes to attach it on the bottom. So here's the questions I haven't seen an answer for yet:

    Is there a better way to attach it?

    Is it better to relocate the horns so that it can be pushed back a little more?

    Anything else that needs relocation or adjustment?
    1995 VR4 Coupe

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    1st ever COTM and COTY verified Feedback Score 9 (100%) green-lantern's Avatar
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    Run the pipes 1st then mount the cooler. It doesn't need to be bolted down very well. Mount the horns from the back side from where they are mounted stock.

    Quote Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy View Post
    I bet she smells of old mustard and sawdust.
    Jeremy

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    Forum User supporter Feedback Score 0 3Srunner's Avatar
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    The part of the frame you will be drilling into for the top two bolts is hollow. I measured and drilled from the bottom straight up through the top. I then used the hole on top as a pilot for a hole-saw bit (1" I believe) for the topside only. This was simple and worked great for me. Just take your time and be sure to measure multiple times so you don't hack your frame.

    I personally had no real fitment issues, however I probably deleted much of anything that could have caused me problems.

    Goodluck,
    Shawn...
    Last edited by 3Srunner; 03-26-2011 at 01:12 AM.

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    Forum User verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) PMP's Avatar
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    Pic's please ;-)
    '92 charcoal GTO
    '91 red SL
    '91 red vr4
    '94 red vr4

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    1st ever COTM and COTY verified Feedback Score 9 (100%) green-lantern's Avatar
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    You can see the alan bolts on top. This is not a PMP core but the piping is PMP. The IC mounts slipped up into the hollow frame so it fit flush but I had to put the bolts on top instead of using a hole saw and recessing the bolts in the frame. I mounted the core 1st so the piping was a bit of a PITA. That's why I would recommend running the piping before mounting the core.



    With a little modification I'm using the stock shroud for an intercooler shroud.





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    Forum User Feedback Score 13 (100%) Austin@STM's Avatar
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    its a PITA no mater how you do it, but it all works ou, just gotta take our time and dont tighten anything until its all together, because you will have to move it around. When i had this kit it took one person on each side to push the pipes onto the core and then a third to tighten them, which ended up pretty much holding the core up on its own without mounting it. I ended up just putting a small bracket on the bottom to support it so i didnt have to drill anything.

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    The 99 coolant reservoir is going to get in the way. Since I had an aftermarket hood with hood pins I just removed the hood latch and built a bracket there to support the FMIC from the top and fabricated some stronger brackets for the bottom.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Patryn View Post
    The 99 coolant reservoir is going to get in the way. Since I had an aftermarket hood with hood pins I just removed the hood latch and built a bracket there to support the FMIC from the top and fabricated some stronger brackets for the bottom.
    Interesting! I like this idea for those of us with aftermarket hoods.


    Doing a customer's car recently, I routed the horns to a hole where the charcoal canister used to be, as flipping them around backwards made the plugs protrude just as much as the horns did. Maybe its a 1G thing. Pulled the PS cooler bracket so that the core would sit as far back as possible. This allowed for mounting without modifying the impact bar at all. Its held up by two bolts with rubber isolators to allow for some "wiggle room" in fitting the pipes. Made mounting the FMIC first and putting on pipes later a breeze. Once the pipes were attached and securely fastened, you couldn't move the core more than 1mm in either direction, which is perfect.

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    Forum User verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) thor'svr4's Avatar
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    i did it this way. i didnt want to drill any holes because i was afraid of the holes rusting a few years down the road. i just bought some SS strips aprox 1" wide, bent them, drilled some holes in them, and bolted them to the oem bolt holes under the radiator cross-member and on top of the CxRacing intercooler core. yea its crooked in the pic, but i fixed it since then. just takes a little bit of tweaking.

    Quote Originally Posted by Austin@STM View Post
    I ended up just putting a small bracket on the bottom to support it so i didnt have to drill anything.
    i ended up doing that too. worked good!
    Last edited by thor'svr4; 03-27-2011 at 04:29 PM.
    the basic go fast bits...
    forged short block, Billet DR1000's, 680cc injectors, meth inj, FMIC, MAFT, Apexi Neo, hotwired 255lph fuel pump.

    Tuned by Ray Pampena

    Just a fun Daily Driver.

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    Forum User Not Verified Feedback Score 2 (100%) jba3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMP View Post
    Pic's please ;-)
    I'll take some as I go along and post them when it's finished.

    Quote Originally Posted by green-lantern View Post
    Run the pipes 1st then mount the cooler. It doesn't need to be bolted down very well. Mount the horns from the back side from where they are mounted stock.
    Ah, I'm going to give the reversed horns idea a try. Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by 3Srunner View Post
    The part of the frame you will be drilling into for the top two bolts is hollow. I measured and drilled from the bottom straight up through the top. I then used the hole on top as a pilot for a hole-saw bit (1" I believe) for the topside only. This was simple and worked great for me. Just take your time and be sure to measure multiple times so you don't hack your frame.

    I personally had no real fitment issues, however I probably deleted much of anything that could have caused me problems.

    Goodluck,
    Shawn...
    I need to keep AC, but a lot of other stuff is gone - cruise, charcoal canister, vac reduction, egr, etc. I'm *hoping* I'll have clearance for it. I also have a 2WS pump to go in later when I do the 4WS delete, though I'm not sure if that will give me any extra needed room. Drilling from the bottom is a great idea, thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Austin@STM View Post
    its a PITA no mater how you do it, but it all works ou, just gotta take our time and dont tighten anything until its all together, because you will have to move it around. When i had this kit it took one person on each side to push the pipes onto the core and then a third to tighten them, which ended up pretty much holding the core up on its own without mounting it. I ended up just putting a small bracket on the bottom to support it so i didnt have to drill anything.
    Hmm. I might give the lower bracket idea a try. Between that and Thor's bracket in the OEM bolt holes idea, this might be pretty easy. I can fab up brackets easy.

    Pics to come in a couple weekends - next weekend isn't a viable install weekend, but the one following should be.

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