Whats needed to go wideband O2?

[Vince86]

Ohh and just read a bit about the ITC sounds like it will help me a lot and unleash more of the power Im looking for. I didnt read how its installed cant find it yet but I read some success stories on 3si. wheres best place to find one and how does this thing make the magic happen?

Edit: Just read it controls the timing by up to 15 degrees advance or retard, sounds good. Thing is how do i decide when I need to advance or retard my timing?

[mb3000]

If you use AEM than you have a power, ground, and 2 extra wires for logging. The last 2 (blue & white) aren't nessisary if you're not logging. The gauge will still read accurately.
A wideband will tell you what your afr's are.
No, it's just a tool for you to use.
Yes, the instruction manual is more than sufficent.
If you log them on MMCd 1.8 (O2-F & O2-R) and find that one or both of them are not functioning correctly you should replace them.
If you have secondary sensors I would reccomend installing the wb02 sensor there, at least 36 inches back from the turbo. You could plug up the other bung with a bolt & buy an O2 simulator so you won't throw a CEL.

[Vince86]

Ok mb3000 thank you for clearing that up for me, I do beleive there are bungs with bolts in my downpipe that are unused so I could go that route. that means I should only need one sensor then I suppose thats a relief. Thanks. Now im off to look for more Apexi S-ITC info, I think thats my next purchase to fix my knock and get my timing right, just need to figure out when to advance the timing and when to retard it. I hear it allows me to put out more boost as I can never go over 15psi on my 15g's or I knock like crazy and timing is every ( at least I think I dont know whats normal)

[Vince86]

Ok found out some help for myself on the AFC2 gonna post it all here for anyone else who might need it. I also am wondering from anyone who currently uses it if this directly relates to our cars with the NB o2 reading they are talking about at the bottom of the page. Here is the link (SoCalEvo.net - Tuning Guide for the A'PEXi SAFC and SAFC-II) and here is the part I am more concerned about.

Tuning with a Datalogger

Set the logger to monitor RPM, Timing, Knock Sum, O2 Voltage, Lo Med and Hi Fuel Trims, and O2 Feedback trim, Throttle Position, plus whatever else you like. With the engine fully warmed up and the ECU recently reset, set the Idle 1000 RPM on the LO map until the O2 Feedback trim is averaging in the middle of the scale. While cruising around at part throttle, hold the RPM steady at each set point on the AFC from 2000-4000 and do the same until each of the RPM points have the O2 Feedback trim averaging in the middle of the scale. Pay attention to the Fuel Trims and if they are adjusting then compensate with the AFC. If the Fuel Trims are going leaner, then reduce the setting on the AFC and vice versa. The goal is to have the O2 Feedback trim averaging in the middle of the scale while in closed loop operation, and have the Fuel Trims right in the middle of the scale or slightly positive. Try to avoid having the Fuel Trims in the negative part of the range since that means the AFC is set too rich. Once the baseline settings are done, monitor the Fuel Trims over the next few days without making changes to the AFC and see where the Fuel Trims wind up. If they are within +30% of the middle of the scale then that is close enough. Set the 4000+ RPM range the same as 4000 for the rest of the LO map.

For the HI map, copy over the settings from the LO map to start with. Ideally the car will have an EGT gauge for reference purposes. This is not to exceed 900C while tuning. Let off the throttle should the EGTs get too high or the Knock Sum gets really high on the logger. With the boost set at a conservative value in the 10-13PSI range, make 3rd gear pulls from 2000-7000 RPM until the O2 voltage is in the .85-.88 range for 1G pistons or .92-.94 range for 2G pistons. Adjust the AFC until the O2 voltage is even across the whole RPM range at full throttle, and within the proper voltage range. Pay attention to the knock sum value and if it is high, try adjusting the AFC settings higher and see if that reduces the knock sum.

After the baseline values are set for both the LO and HI maps, turn up the boost slowly and monitor the EGT and Knock Sum. Ideally the EGTs will peak at 880C and the Timing on the logger will be above 15 degrees. Adjust the AFC up or down until this occurs. Keep in mind that if the boost is too high for the fuel octane, no matter how high you crank up the AFC the EGTs will still be really high. It is better to have less fuel and less boost than to have to add lots of fuel to control the EGTs.

[Vince86]

Also I get the feeling I should consider a tcase brace for launching it from now on. what do you guys think? or would that increase my chances of damaging the even more costly trans-axle? I dont want to be cracking and locking my t-case though either I just never heard about the brace until today.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

yes get a brace if you ever launch the car.

[Vince86]

yes get a brace if you ever launch the car.

Ok I better do that before i spend money elsewhere, which one, MP Transfer Case Bracket Brace AWD 3000GT/Stealth*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts or Transfer Case Bracket CAGE 3000GT / Stealth AWD 5-speed*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts. doesn't necessarily have to be from 3sx if anyone knows a better price elsewhere but I would guess the whole cage is what i should be looking for

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

you can get the stage 2 here:

Drivetrain - Maximal Performance "Stage 2" 5-Speed TC Bracket - Maximal Performance

[Vince86]

Sexy thanks a bunch. After reading some more im now considering solid motor mounts too haha, I have oem ones but when I was in there last year they look pretty good. Think my gains from solid will overturn the cost of doing it?

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

if you are going to drag race a lot you need solids or poly mounts. if not I would stick with stock as long as you can.