atx problems

[n2nsanity]

also, for this buzzing sound
its more like a really fast clicking sound and its quiet in the car, but loud under the hood
i can shift it from under the hood with neutral safety switch, dont know if im supposed to be able to do that or not
i only shifted under the hood when car was off. would be my bad timing that it would start working, lol
it does it whether the car is running or not, as long as the key is in the ignition and turned to on
seems like the sound is coming from the lower rear side of the transmission
sounds more like a solenoid not working, really fast clicking sound, like when youre trying to start a car with a dead battery

still no ideas?
i'd like to figure out this clicking sound first if possible
i'd hate to pull this thing back out for a little wire somewhere

[RL7]

There are solenoids on the valve body. If one has gone bad it might cause some of the problems you are having. You can test them by applying 12V to the connector on top of the transaxle. Here is the relevant circuit diagram:
ATSolenoids.jpg

[n2nsanity]

thanks for the info
but im still lost, lol
that diagram doesn't make much sense to me

[Granny]

Email John at IPT.
He's one of the best on 3k atx.

IPT Performance Transmissions | Performance Parts | Torque Converters

I've had a lot of solenoid issues and never had a buzzing sound. IDK?

[RL7]

thanks for the info
but im still lost, lol
that diagram doesn't make much sense to me

The colors of the power wires to the four solenoids are Blue with a yellow stripe (L-Y), Red (R), Green (GR), and Orange(O). Look for a ten pin connector on top of the transaxle containing wires of this color. attach an alligator clip or just a piece of insulated wire to one lead (making sure it ONLY contacts that lead, sometimes a paperclip is helpful if it's a female connector) and briefly touch the other end to the positive terminal of the battery to test it. Repeat for the other three solenoids. If you find one sounds funny, you may have found the problem. Be extremely careful while doing this that you only touch the appropriate pins and nothing else. If you touch any ground (just about any metal on the car), electricity will flow and possibly short something.

Alternatively, you can drop the valve body and test each solenoid outside the car, you may have to end up doing this anyway. Worst part is dealing with atf.

[kevin70]

Did you ever find the problem? I have the exact problem you've had.

[n2nsanity]

Ended up just doing the 5spd conversion. There's a few good tips in here and also a solenoid diagram on the 1st page. I would check the torque converter as that sounds like the most likely issue. Do you have the buzzing/clicking sound too?

[kevin70]

Update: I repaired the tcm still getting the solenoid chatter. I figure torque convertor or valve body. I cleaned and inspected the valve body twice, no sticking valves, no broken springs. I've talked to a tranny tech and he has had people ask about the chatter, ground issue???, but they could still drive the car. I'll try a new torque convertor, just never had one go all the way out. Thanks n2nsanity for your help

[nodoze]

if you need any help shoot me a pm they have you on the right track as is. but the dsm auto trans is identical to the 3s internally. and dont waste your time with talking to john at ipt their parts are good but their customer service blows.

[kevin70]

I installed a rebuilt torque convertor and now goes into drive, also the rebuilt TQ felt lighter than the old one by about 8-10 lbs, wow! Don't know why but it was (full of clutch material???). I have yet to figure out the solenoid chatter. I still have to install new cv half shafts, so have yet to road test. Lesson learned on rebuilding 3000gt tranny, Always change torque convertor! Never had to change it on the 700r4's I rebuilt