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Thread: 6g74 / built atx

  1. #101
    94 3500gt vr2? verified
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    new flywheel and clutch kit installed
    working on cleaning up the old mtx now
    also thinking about replacing the axle seals
    ive never seen one leak, but i'd like to replace them
    are they a real pain to replace?






    that bolt closest to the firewall is still there for a reason... rear motor mount bracket in the way
    Last edited by n2nsanity; 05-04-2011 at 08:10 PM.
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  2. #102
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    Nah mate, drill a self tapper into them and pull them out with the claw bit on a hammer, goop up the outside of the new seal, apply a bit of trans oil to the inner ring, and hit it in with an appropriate size socket, you'll know its 100% in when she bottoms out on the casing.

    replace em now mate or you'll kick yourself!
    also change the slave cyl and make sure you lube up the input shaft aswell

  3. #103
    94 3500gt vr2? verified
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    i'm getting anxious, i may end up saving them for later.
    still have plenty of work left in that area anyway, unless i end up doing all of that now too
    lowering springs, rebuilt calipers, slotted rotors, replace the broken lug stud....

    transmission is mounted
    wasn't terrible, but i'm glad i had some help with it
    much lighter and smaller than the atx, but still pretty heavy

    also, shaved down part of the rear motor mount bracket. this helped quite a bit i think
    wish i would've done it before it was in the car, would've saved me a lof of time and been more accurate
    anyway, problem solved althought not as clean as i wanted

    without doing this, i couldn't remove the old bolt and probably would've made it hard to get the mtx installed without removing the whole rear mount and bracket

    installed the mtx through the bottom
    axle in first because the ps axle is tough to get in


    mtx installed
    Last edited by n2nsanity; 05-08-2011 at 01:51 PM. Reason: adding pics

  4. #104
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    6 puck eh....what made you go with a 6puck over a full face?

  5. #105
    94 3500gt vr2? verified
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    it's somewhere in between a 4 puck and a full
    seemed like the best option at the time
    hoping to improve friction but not have to replace it after 6 months lol

  6. #106
    94 3500gt vr2? verified
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    didn't have much time today. most of that was spent cleaning up and repainting the trans mount bracket
    i didn't notice this before but the atx and mtx mount brackets are way different. really glad i kept the one from the parts car
    but the old bracket was pretty nasty and rusty so i sanded it down and repainted

    also realized that 91,92s used a cable for the speedometer and 93+ use a sensor...
    i have a 92 mtx in a 94, and on top of that both ends are female, so i'm going to have to improvise something

    speedo cable vs sensor


    or i could do nothing and keep it under 100k miles for a while longer

    well, i got the motor mount and starter in at least
    Last edited by n2nsanity; 05-09-2011 at 01:37 AM.

  7. #107
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    Very strange mate, when doing auto> manual I actually have a picture of both mounts and mine were identical!

  8. #108
    Pucks SUCK. Straite up. Changed a ton of them out. And countless number of discs that have spit out the springs from the hubs.
    Should have gone full face and spring free (solid) hub. The spec 5 hubs need to bolted between each rivet with a grade 8 bolt to help hold the hub from shearing the rivets under crazy hard use.
    Sorry, no pics of the bolted hub.

  9. #109
    94 3500gt vr2? verified
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    mounts were way different, i'll get pics later
    i'm glad i've been hoarding parts, lol

    i'll look into the full face solid hub setup for next time
    either that or a twin disc setup
    but, hopefully that won't be anytime soon
    i'd like to enjoy driving this thing for a while first
    i started this project in september
    8 months later, still not quite done....

  10. #110
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    no need to improvise on the speedo
    pulled apart the old atx sensor and found this


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