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Thread: Help!! Trying to remove the rear motor mount...

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    Help!! Trying to remove the rear motor mount...

    Alright guys, I'm tired... it's been a long day pulling the downpipe, rear precat, and rear heat shield. Which by the way I never thought id find myself beating on my car with a hammer and pry bar but thats how I ripped that fing heat shield out of there. I just decided... I DONT NEED IT ANYMORE!! haha.

    Anyways back to the main subject at hand... All other motor mounts have the center bolt loosened but not removed. The only one I have left is the rear mount center bolt and I cannot get it to budge. I have sprayed with pb blaster repeatedly and have attempted to loosen it from both sides of the bolt.

    What is the trick!?!?!?

    Should the motor be supported slightly from below? Can I get it from the passenger side or does it have to be from underneath? I tried climbing on top of the motor as well but couldn't get it to budge from there either...

    ANY advice would be GREATLY appreciated!!

    BTW I'm replacing them with maximal solid mounts and the car is a 97 vr4.

    Thanks, John

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    Diamonds and Rust Feedback Score 1 (100%) gltasn's Avatar
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    i used a wobly and a few extentions to reach the drivers side nut and a wrench holding the other side. i was under the car head first and used my right hand. you will prob have marks and grease on your arm when done.

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    sorry newb question here... what is a wobly? and why would you need a wrench holding the other side?

    thanks, john

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    You did it wrong. The easiest way to do this is to leave the stock side mounts in place at first. Then remove the center bolt on the front and get through there to remove the center bolt on the rear. Now the engine can pivot on the side mounts. Now you can use a ratchet strap or engine hoist to pull the engine forawrd and have more room to get the rear mount out of there.

    Once thats out put the new one in place. Let the engine go back into its normal position and finish the front mount. Put those center bolts back in and then do the sides.

    [06-05, 19:29] OhioSpyderman: Brian, finding a woman is NOT the answer, you need to shop for a good VACUUM

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    Removing the rear motor mount is an arduous task indeed. The wobbly he talks of is a flex joint for a socket wrench so you can get to the bolt at an angle other than straight on. See picture.



    The reason you would need a wrench on the other side is cause you are trying to take a nut off a bolt. You need to hold one of those two items steady while you turn the other to loosen them. If you don't, then you will just spin the nut and the bolt together. You could also use a second socket wrench, to hold the other side, but most people only have 1 socket wrench.
    WWW.3sofflorida.com is the new home for 3000GT & Stealth Enthusiasts in Florida. Sign up today. But also stay on this site too. Think of it as having multiple homes. Its a sign of being filthy rich.

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    Stealthee... None of the mounts have been removed yet. Just the center bolt has been loosened on the other three. I just can't get the rear mount center bolt to break loose. I can get a socket on both sides of it but I just can't get it to budge. I have the best vantage point from the passenger side of the center bolt so i guess ill try that again. Would lifting the motor up slightly help break that center bolt free?

    Thanks, John

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    enollava... if I could just get the bolt to spin I would be stoked at this point. I will just put my 1/4" socket on the drivers side of the bolt because if I can get it to spin then eventually it will hit something and loosen itself as I turn from the passenger side.

    And about the wobbly, I actually have those. I just bought them yesterday. Just didn't know what they were called...

    I will give it a try again...

    Thanks, John

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    Cheater pipes work wonders. Lifting the engine a bit will really only help if you are spinning the bolt and not the nut, or trying to remove/install the bolt.

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    11 sec FWD! (old name: 94atxvr2) Feedback Score 0 11secondFWD's Avatar
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    Huge breaker bar or an impact can break it free as long as you got the socket on there flush, I dont see a problem other than muscle/torque.

    92 Eagle Talon TSI AWD Auto = 10.61@127.8 (1.4 60ft)
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    Forum User supporter Feedback Score 1 (100%) Rocket's Avatar
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    i am thinking of welding the damn nut on the engine bracket so you just have to worry about taking the bolt out. That thing seriously pissed me the (*&%^ off! There is beyond no room back there to get to it and there were two of us working on it.

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