I've heard the opposite - that stock manifolds are far from optimal - but I have no firsthand experience so I'll butt out.
Chris, good to see you're around, man. How's the Stealth? I picked up a pearl white one too.
//Ryan
I've heard the opposite - that stock manifolds are far from optimal - but I have no firsthand experience so I'll butt out.
Chris, good to see you're around, man. How's the Stealth? I picked up a pearl white one too.
//Ryan
Hey man, well it sat in my moms driveway for almost 3 years after the tranny decided it no longer wanted to hold fluid for more than a week and wouldn't stay in gear. I refused to get rid of it because I always wanted a project car. Now that I graduated I have extra money to put into it. I'd really like to get some DR750s on it, and clean it all up. Get the body all back to par, put some lovin' into the interior and have her runnin' good again. I saw you got a RT/TT I still troll here and 3si all the time, usually threads you are in have some good info so i tend to read them lol. I may have to bug you for some help at some point, I've jumped in feet first tearing it apart. I've labeled most things but I'm sure I will need some help at some point.
please ignore my terrible grammar Im real tired.
I don't believe it's common but because the heat gets trapped it causes the metal temperature to rise much higher than it would without the coating. It probably exacerbates existing problems.
You're right it is the point, but because it can cause the metal to fatigue and crack, I think it's safer to wrap or coat the stuff you don't want getting hot rather than risking cracking the manifold. I'm thinking about it from the point of view that you have a specific piece thats close to the turbo you don't want getting hot.
1992 3000GT VR-4
DR650s,Denso 550 injectors, Walbro 255, Emanage Blue,3SX Cat Eliminator Downpipe,Short Shifter,DNP Hardpipe Kit,HKS SSQV,Underdrive pulley,Carbotech slotted rotors,RPS Lightweight Flywheel, Maximal Solid Mounts
Ceramic coating is the best thing to do if you are looking into it. It will trap more heat inside the manifolds, but that's a good thing. It will produce less heat in your engine bay and will make your manifolds less prone to cracking because more of the heat is exiting out the exhaust not radiating into the engine bay. I would never heat wrap a set of manifolds. You're asking for it to crack because it traps moisture very well. It's only a matter of time before it cracks.
95 RT/TT Billet TD04s E70, DW1000cc injectors, ARC-2 with 92mm maf, 3SX fuel rail loop, hotwired Walbro 416/485, 3" FMIC, single small Krank vent, DR 3.5" downpipe and cat-back, DNP 02 housings, Hallman Pro MBC, BlackStealth LCDBC, AEM wideband, AEM oil pressure, Apexi S1 coilovers with SCE EVO 8/9 adapters, 3SX adjustable control arms, Spec 3+ clutch, Maximal solids/3SX poly motor mounts, Setrab custom SMOC, stock motor 127k miles, stock drivetrain.
I have the DR750's on a bone stock engine with a huge ips frontmount and my car right now is running 178-182 on the street in thirty to fifty degree weather .. Idling at 186-190 .. And after some gear pulls just touches 200-203 .. Im sure it will change some in the warmer summer weather, but for a street car that your not boosting every two seconds you really wont need ceramic anything IMO .. My 02 cents says put your money towards the stuff you definitely need !!!
Im not looking at it has a heat issue honestly. I want to clean up the bay a LOT and having the rusty manifold front and center just looks crappy. But I do agree with you, there probably is not a need for the coating for heat purposes, more for looks. It was fun enough getting the manifold out this time, I dont wanna have to do it again; I'm sure the back one is worse. Your car is awesome too though! I'm really impressed with all these DR750 cars making more than TD05s with way more invested.
I promise DR750's will have you giggling in your seat ...
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