2 bolt with forged crank worth it or just go 3.5L? Relability needed at 600hp.

[Gearheadvr4]

Wanted to post here too since I usually get better answers on this site... I have a bit of a dilemma. I've got a perfectly fine turbo JDM 2 bolt with 57k. The engine ran great and the bearings looked brand new. All stock motor. I also have a 120k 4 bolt non turbo with normal wear for that mileage. Runs great too.

Keep in mind I have a power goal of about 600 and want as reliable as I can get since it's my daily driver. I will not push that power all the time, I plan to have an everyday boost level and a corvette killer level.

I've done everything else on these cars besides engine internals. Never plastigauged or swapped pistons ect. Scares me a bit since I've seen the results of poor engine builds.

Would it be worth it to swap the cranks so I could have a forged crank in the 2 bolt? What would be involved? My other option is a 3.5l but I cannot find anyone that has a ready to drop in motor. A 3.5l would be a much better fit for my 16g td05.

[PearlWhiteR/T]

I would say you would be more than safe using your 2-bolt with a forged crank and the 3sx Arp main stud kit:
3SX Custom ARP Main Stud Kit for 91-92 TT/VR4 2-Bolt Mains*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts

Can't say how involved the work is to pull an engine on our cars either as I've never done it myself. I know people have run kits similar to that on a 3.0 block.. pry would be some lag for sure though. If you aren't dead set on td-05's... some billet Dr650's or even 750's would be a great choice without having to swap out manifolds and worry about lag.

[J_Parker]

Pulling an engine in our cars isn't all too bad as people make it seem. I can do it in about an hour with a good mindset, and available tools. With some ARP main studs you should be fine at that power level with the two bolt.

With a 16G kit you will have some lag, not horrible, but you will notice it. If you can, and want to see the full potential of those TD05's I would most certainly go for a 3.5L. Sometimes they're pretty tough to track down, but they pop up every now and again at very good prices.

If at all possible too, why not swap rods/pistons from your 2 bolt into the 4 bolt block and have some room to expand in power potential, if you ever decide to try for more than 800hp Doing the engine internals is pretty intimidating at first glance, but just walk into it with confidence. As long as you have a clean environment and some common sense you'll do fine!

[Gearheadvr4]

Pulling an engine is no big deal, can do if in few hours. That's not the issue.

The 4 bolt is just an NA block so that means no oil squirters and whatever other differences there may be. If I swap pistons that would mean honing the cylinder walls right?

[KeithMac]

My stock 2 bolt has handled all the abuse I can throw at it over 6 years now, I think it`s done very well!.

Knock from bad tuning is the biggest killer of the 2 bolts IMHO.

[Gearheadvr4]

What level are you running at? With 780cc injectors you have to be very close to what my goals are. I want 600 and to be in the high 10s or low 11s in the 1/4.

[KeithMac]

I haven`t dyno`d it, best trap was a 117mph so far but I haven`t managed to do a clean run with no clutch slip yet!.

I run 20% Methanol in tank, greatly increases octane/ knock resistance for me (but I have to run 15% more M20 than straight petrol for a given load range).

Still on a single Walbro so that`s the limiting factor at the moment, got all the bits to go dual pump which will be happening this year with my OS Geiken RC3 clutch.

I`ve always run Methanol injection or Methanol mix in tank when drag racing/ prolonged boost runs and that`s why it`s still in one piece I think!.

If you tine carefully I think you should be fine at 600awhp but just make sure you don`t start knocking especially in summer with the hot air temps.