What did you do today to your 3/S?

[jonezj]

Pressed out bushings and ball joint off my LCAs then wire brushed, deburred, sanded and painted the components (and battery tray) to stop and protect from rust. Used black caliper paint because I think it should seal pretty well. No $ for pretty powdercoating. Ninja poly bushings going in soon then wrapping up the evo brembo swap. [emoji109]

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[rawavr4]

Picked up my 3.7 shorty and headlift fix feed heads from Merkel today. Test fitted my head studs. Does it matter if they bottom out in the block or not? Lots of thread engagement but the shank hits the block before the bottom of the stud does.

[R/T93]

You do not want the stud bottoming out on the block in its final torqued position.

[rawavr4]

So I'm good then? Shank touches deck before bottom of stud. I think I worded a little weird.

[jonezj]

Picked up my 3.7 shorty and headlift fix feed heads from Merkel today. Test fitted my head studs. Does it matter if they bottom out in the block or not? Lots of thread engagement but the shank hits the block before the bottom of the stud does.

I feel like my little LCA refresh project just got a bit one-upped there. Lol

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[rawavr4]

I'll be doing the same thing this winter when I get around to it. I'm gonna give powder coating a try.

[mdcrose]

Picked up my 3.7 shorty and headlift fix feed heads from Merkel today. Test fitted my head studs. Does it matter if they bottom out in the block or not? Lots of thread engagement but the shank hits the block before the bottom of the stud does.

From Italo's thread:
Ok, so here is the Torque Spec for the A1 head Stud kits;
1) Using old ARP Moly Lube --- 105 lb-ft
2) Using 30w engine oil --- 125 lb-ft
3) Using International Compound # 2 (supplied) --- 105 lb-ft

Installation Instructions:
1) Make sure the stud/block/nut threads are clean
2) Install the studs in the block using motor oil on the block thread (hand tight 5-10 lb-ft) via hex
3) Lubricate top stud thread/nut thread and washer surface/washer flats with preferred Lubricant (suggest International Compound #2)
4) Torque studs to 60-70 lb-ft in the OEM torque sequence 3, yes 3, times. This helps break in the thread surfaces.
5) Final Torque: Using old ARP Moly or International Compound #2
1. Loosen the nuts completely
2. Re-lubricate the top of the studs, washer and nut (recommend International compound #2)
3. Torque in three steps:
a. Torque Studs to 40 lb-ft in the OEM Torque Sequence
b. Torque Studs to 70 lb-ft in the OEM Torque Sequence
c. Finally Torque Studs to 105 lb-ft in the OEM Torque Sequence

**NOTE: If you use motor oil use 55, 85, 125 in the three steps.

[rawavr4]

Just ordered this stuff
Screenshot_20161204-205353.jpg

Also lapped the valves and installed my ferrea stuff into one of my heads. Then cleaned the deck of the block a bit and wd40d every thing. Just waiting on parts now.
20161204_203922.jpg
20161204_203904.jpg
20161203_203233.jpg

[jonezj]

Finished evo brembo conversion. Going to have her towed to a shop for alignment tomorrow, then she is back on the road for the first time in a few months. New poly LCA bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints, rotors, calipers, ebc red stuff pads and evo x bbs 18x8.5s wrapped in Bridgestone sport comp 2s. Going to feel like a new car. [emoji108]

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[stealthee]

Why would you tow it to the shop to get an alignment? You can get it close by eyeballing and a few measurements and drive it to the shop without issue.