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Thread: What did you do today to your 3/S?

  1. #7761
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    Eh, just too lazy to take the hub assembly in. And obviously can't take the whole shell. We have various threads, I just assumed standard threading for these applications.
    Mods: 2g 3k body conversion, 2g Brake upgrade, Rota P45R rims
    Projects: Interior sound deadening, 14Bs, forged bottom end, custom radiator and sound mounts

  2. #7762
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    1.25 pitch if I remember correctly.

  3. #7763
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    Well this is a thing now. Tomorrow morning I'll work on getting the hardware for the front and then I can put the car back on the ground.

  4. #7764
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    Installed axles, mounted up hubs, filled radiator, adjusted clutch, SHE IS ALIVE!!!

    13t's, SCE oil pan, Maximal performance oil cooler, new custom southbend clutch all installed in the last month or so, first startup was today. MAYBE an exhaust leak on the rear turbo but thats about it. SO HAPPY. Want to hit up a track day and autocross before I leave for NG on the 18th, gotta get some miles on her and make sure shes reliable, should be
    93 R/T - Modded, Full Suspension, Full Exhaust, Quaife Diff, Turbo brakes, Alpine/Boston Sound One of 25
    98 VR-4 - Billet 13t's, Downpipe, Blitz EBC, Ohlins R/T coil overs, SCE center differential, SCE oil pan, Pampena braced trans, TEC Rear Strut Bar, Custom Front Strut Bar, Camber Arms, Alum Driveshaft, 2" Koyo, Maximal oil cooler, SAFC2, Defi Gauges, RC 550's, Supra Pump, Skillard Splitter, Hardpipes, XYZ 14" front brakes/Carbotech, 255 Dunlop Z2's, AMR 18x9's, Alpine/Infinity/JL Sound. One of 13

    3SNG15 Best overall




    "I explode 1 piece rotors" -- ABM --
    Runs 12's (12.98's!!!!!!)
    My Garage

  5. #7765
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    ^ You easily have one of the most practical approaches at modding your car than anyone I have ever seen. It is so purpose built and thought out, I love it!

  6. #7766
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    I'm probably the slowest person to ever upgrade their turbos ever. Like 5 years with the 9b's it was torture!

  7. #7767
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    Paint correction.




  8. #7768
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    Thought: any reason to make adjustable rear upper and lower control arms?

    I know uppers should be all that's necessary to adjust for lowering, just know that my ball joints need to be replaced on the lowers and not sure what options we have for that.

  9. #7769
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    I snagged me up a set of PTE 550cc Injectors on ebay for $60.... I'll get them cleaned and rebuilt and they should work great with the 13G's I'll be putting in later on.

    Check it out on Youtube!!


    93 Stealth TT - The Stealth Project

    Renegade Tech Works ECS Controller on Intrax Springs
    Chrome ECU
    Hybrid 13g's
    EVO 560cc Injectors
    Spec Stage 3 clutch
    Ninja Performance Output shaft & Input spool
    Ninja Performance Solid Tensioner & Gates racing T-Belt
    CX Racing Dual Core FMIC
    Megan SS Exhaust
    Fidanza Cam Gears and Clear Covers
    3rd Gen Lifters
    HKS BOV
    K&N FIPK
    Maximal High flow converter
    Walbro FP & FuelLab FPR
    Maximal and Seattle Solid Mounts
    All -6an Lines
    Custom -6AN coolant neck lines
    AWS/ABS/Cruise Delete
    MP Rear Control Arms
    SS Brake Lines
    99 Front Conversion
    2nd gen Rear Bumper
    99 Combat Wing
    Complete interior LED Swap
    Skillard Fuel channel
    Oohnoo FPR Bracket
    .
    .
    More to Come......

  10. #7770
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    Well, did quite a bit of searching, there's a lot of conflicting information on the rear ball joint replacement for the lower arm as far as what will and won't work. I'll likely just have to buy some and see what I can find out. Likely find/make a replacement bushing as well. Boo.

    Making adjustable lowers is an option, however would require fabricating some kind of adjustable bracket for the sway bar to attach to such that the tube can still be rotated and adjusted as necessary but the sway bar can still be mounted. Not sure it's worth the trouble. Then again, $200 each for new rear lower arms is flipping pricey. Making some kind of bracket to be welded to the rear trailing arm instead would be a bit tedious I think. And need to be spot on between the two sides for the sway bar to do its job properly. Bah humbug.

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