What did you do today to your 3/S?

**j2k4** · 10-18-2014, 02:56 PM

Drove it for 10 minutes, got to try out our village's new pavement, parked it back at home, went to the Rally/wrench in my truck, took a pic of Pastrana's car as it passed, came home.

**Chris@Rvengeperformance** · 10-18-2014, 02:59 PM

Originally Posted by familyMAN

I don't understand why the chamfer would go down. Wouldn't that leave an airgap under the brace unless you counter sink and match the chamfer perfectly?

With chamfer out, you have a good place to weld.

Maybe in visualizing wrong and someone can straighten me out.

yeah I don't get it either, but I saw Ray posted it that way. I imagine as long as the gear set fits its not a huge problem either way.

sneak peak:

**sergechronos** · 10-18-2014, 03:07 PM

Originally Posted by Forest Gump

yeah I don't get it either, but I saw Ray posted it that way. I imagine as long as the gear set fits its not a huge problem either way.

sneak peak:

Not like the strength of the bracing comes from the chamfer being up or down, I imagine it just helps account for the radiusing where the vertical and horizontal meet. Still too big for that though. I agree the chamfered portion makes a more ideal area to weld.

Color me jealous of the picture. Just hope I'll be here when Chris starts tearing into mine, doubt it though.

These all need to be torn down first for either salvage or rebuild before mine gets looked at.

**TurboSinceBirth** · 10-18-2014, 03:30 PM

The input shaft bearing is super easy to change if you have a press. I used a Harbor Freight 20 ton but I bet the 12 ton will work also because it doesn't require too much force. A 32mm socket works great for pressing it in or out. You can press the bearing too far in upon installation so measure how far your old one protrudes into the bell housing. I've tried feeler gauges but a dial gauge would be more precise. If you go through that trouble you might as well reset the bearing preload for the input shaft.

**lawdogg** · 10-18-2014, 10:50 PM

After still being frustrated by wandering steering, even after replacing a howling wheel bearing and both sets of inner & outer tie rods and both ball joints, I decided to replace the other wheel bearing. Just a little loose!

**Unlogic** · 10-19-2014, 03:27 AM

Originally Posted by sergechronos

What type of puller is that?

Seems to be a good one for pulling the bearing races.

**sergechronos** · 10-19-2014, 06:15 AM

It is a puller for GM rear differentials iirc. The jaws are pretty small so you can get them under the races. Pair it with a slide hammer and you're good to go pretty much.

Unfortunately I don't know much for specifics on it. The feet/lips on the jaws are very very narrow and there's not a ton of material under them to keep them from getting under either.