What did you do today to your 3/S?

[green-lantern]

I had to post here... A proper solder joint will add minimal resistance to a circuit. I haven't personally tested it, but I can sit here and measure the resistance of a bunch of wire, cut it in half and solder it back together and prove that the difference is trivial (likely not measurable with the Fluke meters we have here)

Extending the harness is a different story, but as long as you don't use thinner wire or extend it an obnoxious distance there's nothing wrong with extending it IMO.

From the link MR2 posted.

here is a blurb from Bosch installation manual for O2 sensor:

Installation instructions
The Lambda sensor should be installed at a point which permits the measurement of a representative exhaust-gas mixture, and which does not exceed the maximum permissible temperature. The sensor is screwed into a mating thread and tightened with 50...60 N · m.
– Install at a point where the gas is as hot as possible.
– Observe the maximum permissible temperatures.
– As far as possible install the sensor vertically, whereby the electrical connections should point upwards.
– The sensor is not to be fitted near to the exhaust outlet so that the influence of the outside air can be ruled out. The exhaust- gas passage opposite the sensor must be free of leaks in order to avoid the effects of leak-air.
– Protect the sensor against condensation water.
– The sensor body must be ventilated from the outside in order to avoid overheating.
– The sensor is not to be painted, nor is wax to be applied or any other forms of treatment. Only the recommended grease is to be used for lubricating the threads.
– The sensor receives the reference air through the connection cable. This means that the connector must be clean and dry. Contact spray, and anti-corrosion agents etc. are forbidden.
– The connection cable must not be soldered. It must only be crimped, clamped, or secured by screws.
__________________

[green-lantern]

I know right. stilllooking for the black fuel pressure gauge. its an easy swapif I can find one

You got any more pics showing how you built this?

[n2nsanity]

I had to post here... A proper solder joint will add minimal resistance to a circuit. I haven't personally tested it, but I can sit here and measure the resistance of a bunch of wire, cut it in half and solder it back together and prove that the difference is trivial (likely not measurable with the Fluke meters we have here)

Extending the harness is a different story, but as long as you don't use thinner wire or extend it an obnoxious distance there's nothing wrong with extending it IMO.

Some interesting stuff here. Could heat be a reason not to solder? If the exhaust heats up the wire, it could either melt the solder or maybe have some kind of chemical effect on the bond?

[n2nsanity]

Snapped my window regulator last night... was a cold drive home

I knew it was coming and I had just ordered a replacement yesterday. So I'm rockin the 2x4 for now, lol.

[DocWalt]

Newer O2 sensors breathing through their wires is a good reason to be careful how you solder the wires. I'm not 100% sure why an O2 sensor needs to breathe anyway, anyone here with better info on this?

[B-Man]

I had soldered both of mine, and they both read together and with my wideband.

The outside of the bulb is exposed to the hot gases in the exhaust while the inside of the bulb is vented internally through the sensor body to the outside atmosphere. Older style oxygen sensors actually have a small hole in the body shell so air can enter the sensor, but newer style O2 sensors "breathe" through their wire connectors and have no vent hole. It's hard to believe, but the tiny amount of space between the insulation and wire provides enough room for air to seep into the sensor (for this reason, grease should never be used on O2 sensor connectors because it can block the flow of air)

I'm pretty sure a big factor is whether you do it before or after the connector (harness or o2 side). I did mine harness side.

[n2nsanity]

I'm pretty sure a big factor is whether you do it before or after the connector (harness or o2 side). I did mine harness side.

This is what I'm thinking. At least 6" away from the sensor and even better if on the other side of a connector. Which also makes more sense because it's easier to disconnect as needed.

[Rakuny]

I found out the replacement 2nd gen Stealth bumper I had located the guy doesn't want to sell and now wants to get rid of the whole car. I'm contemplating getting the whole car for cheap, fixing the VCU and clutch, and flipping the car. I have no room though. I'm trying to sell a silver 1st gen VR-4 for $900. If it doesn't go which I don't expect anyone to be serious enough to come and get it I'm just going to scrap it. The market royally sucks.


I ended up swapping in 1000cc injectors on the Stealth. It definitely helped my fueling needs but now I have this weird hesitation around 4k rpms where the car has a hard time accelerating and then just takes off so I'm not exactly sure what that is. I couldn't turn up the boost past 18 psi either so I bet there's some leaks.

If you were closer I'd potentially be interested in your silver 1st gen.

[MR2]

this is what I've been attempting to tell you guys I'm talking sensor side!

[MeTarzan]

This is what I got to do today, luckily its not mine but a customers car
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMNl_nZqXi8&hd=1