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Thread: What did you do today to your 3/S?

  1. #2751
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    go get a tool like this:

    Buy Autocraft Pitman Arm Puller AC567/W142 at Advance Auto Parts

    but for tierods, they make them smaller for tie rods. Very easy you'd be done in 2 minutes.

    You can't drill it out, the hole is tapered.

    Parting 6 speed
    Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace

  2. #2752
    SKADOOSH!!! verified
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrets View Post
    Got a thread for this???

    I'll have one started up for you guys the next time I'm in town, I'd like to get some actual progress to show off before posting pictures, it looks pretty silly as of now lol.
    Photobucket

  3. #2753
    Wrench Monkey Not Verified
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrets View Post
    Guys, my problem isn't getting the axles and transmission out, it's the tie-rod ends that are stuck! What if I can't get them out, can they be drilled out or is the hole tapered like the tie-rods?




    I hit those fuckers as hard as I could.





    Got a thread for this???
    You're hitting the knuckle right? Not the control arm? It has never not worked for me, even on big rusty G3500 van ball joints/tie rods (and they get a lot more stuck than our little bj's).
    1997 3000GT VR4 - Solano Black Pearl - E85 - E316G-BIG - All the boost
    1993 3000GT VR4 - Maroon/Blacktop - Back to stock/Restoration
    1994 Stealth R/T - Primer - Parts store

  4. #2754
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwIzTeD_3kGt View Post
    You're hitting the knuckle right? Not the control arm? It has never not worked for me, even on big rusty G3500 van ball joints/tie rods (and they get a lot more stuck than our little bj's).
    Of course Im hitting the knuckle silly. Ill try out a puller tomorrow.

    As of today my car is 125lbs lighter. I should have checked the weight of the damn thing before I dropped it on my chest. Who would have thought I could pull something that weighs as much as I do about 5-10lbs short. And as I suspected, my output shaft seal is leaking, well dripping.

  5. #2755
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    ^ and then?
    1991 Stealth RT/TT
    Mods- Greddy Type S and a spun bearing.

    [Yesterday 11:43 PM] R/T93 : Im reading hulk comics on Youtube
    [Yesterday 11:45 PM] R/T93 : he has to fight the silver surfer hand to hand...
    OhioSpyderman:why do you have to pee on my wheaties Dave?

  6. #2756
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    I messed with it a bit. Planning on switching from hover mode to wheel mode for autoX tomorrow.

  7. #2757
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    But hover mode is definitely much faster!!!!
    1995 Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo
    Mods: DR750s, BC Sportsman rods, Ross pistons, ACT HD 6 puck clutch, 5 speed transmission, 300M output shaft, Broomfield racing billet transfer case housings, Spectre air filter, GM 3.75" MAF w/translator, DN Pre-turbo pipes, Pampena/CX Racing dual core FMIC, M2 Performance turbo-back exhaust, Walbro 450lph E85 pump, SXPerformance fuel filter, stainless fuel feed lines, EK2 Mfg fuel rails, SXPerformance AFPR, 1000cc Bosch injectors, 99 VR4 replica ECU w/ Chrome for tuning, Kenne Bell Boost-a-Spark, Blitz SBC i-D boost controller, IPS oil cooler, Intrax springs on KYB GR2 struts, Enkei Kojin 18X9.5 +30, Nexen N3000s, 99 front end, carbon fiber steering wheel, Pioneer AVH-X2600BT, JL C2 6.5" and 6"x9" speakers, free 4 channel amp for subs (LOL), twin Alpine 10" type E subs.

    Made 608whp/631wtrq on Pampena's dyno @ 31 psi.

  8. #2758
    1st ever COTM and COTY verified
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    Rotated tires, adjusted coilovers, changed oil, and forgetting I got my air filter soaking. Need to finish cleaning that lol

    Quote Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy View Post
    I bet she smells of old mustard and sawdust.
    Jeremy

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    swapped back to my oem turbo oil feed lines. pretty simple the rear, but the front was more tricky. got it out in like 3 minutes, but putting it on was the tricky part. had to have the feed line at the perfect angle then had to barely get the banjo started, then was cake from there. helps with the turbos out tremendously. did not have to take off the ac.

    1/4 mile 11.80 @117mph. 551whp 641trq @ 26psi E85 tune, MTC 19T-HLs, forge 15psi spring wastegates, 780 PTE inj, 3SX Fuel loop, ss fuel lines, Engine built by Laniers Speed shop, block bored .060 w/ chromolly rings, weisco pistons, 3sx custom forged rods, forged crank, HKS DLI, AEM EMS, AEM UEGO wideband, prosport oil and boost guages, aeromotive 1000 FPR, Dejon blow thru twintakes, Walbro E85 400 w/ 3sx hotwire kit and custom an fitting fuel pump w/ STM filter to pump line, CXRacing FMIC, Megan Racing Aluminum radiator, IPS custom downpipe, Borla 3" exhaust,Greddy profec b spec II EBC, Blitz SS BOV,R1 Drilled slotted rotors, Drag DR-31 rims, RPS stage 4 unsprung clutch,

  10. #2760
    One fix at a time verified
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    I took a motor all apart getting ready to install the upgraded springs in the DR Stage III heads and send them off to Ray for the head lift fix. I moved a whole car load of interior parts across town plus pulled some speakers out. I started to install those but only got the front ones in because I was getting tired.

    My DW1000s came in. Now to decide whether to drain my tank, fill it with E85, do a quick tune with the ARC-2, or go ahead and finish putting the 99 connectors on my adapter harness, install the flashed ECU, and start tuning it. I wanted to not hit fuel cut but it will take a few hours of tuning before I can go WOT I'm sure on the flashed ECU so I may wait on that until next week.

    I also bought all the brake stuff I needed. I have a Stoptech 332 kit to go on the front and speed bleeders all around. I think I'll have to wait on that since the injectors/tune will come first.

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