What did you do today to your 3/S?

**2fnloud** · 07-26-2017, 05:38 PM

Originally Posted by Unlogic

Thanks!

I had no idea that Dymo had heat-shrink tubing in their product range.

look into the Molshine Heat-Shrink Tubes media cartridges, cheaper and have great ratings on Amazon like 8.00 per in all three sizes

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...t-Shrink+Tubes

**2fnloud** · 09-14-2017, 05:47 PM

Making a Y-Pipe:

Need to order one more T-bolt clamp, cut the 3" tube to size, bread the ends. I also need a BOV, I want nice, I want loud, hate all you want, I want that Fast and Furious blow off valve sound.

**Uniuno** · 09-14-2017, 06:15 PM

Looks good, Steve. Though it might be a hair long ;-)

I borrowed a bead roller from a co-worker that works great. Didn't know how expensive it was until I just looked it up.

https://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-Perfo.../dp/B00LF4T82Q

Alternatively, I have also made a bead roller/crimper out of some channel lock pliers, exhaust clamp, and crankshaft woodruff key. It worked well too, just not as pretty and a lot more work. Also, mine only works on 2" pipe. Although I'm sure you could cut the sides of the exhaust clamp to accommodate different pipe sizes.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=...05513375767560

As far as BOV, I couldn't agree with you more, louder is better. I run the Turbo XS RFL. You can get practically identical knockoffs on ebay for a fraction of the cost. We just picked up a nice blue one for Char's Vr4.

**2fnloud** · 09-14-2017, 06:38 PM

Originally Posted by Uniuno

Looks good, Steve. Though it might be a hair long ;-)

I borrowed a bead roller from a co-worker that works great. Didn't know how expensive it was until I just looked it up.

https://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-Perfo.../dp/B00LF4T82Q

Alternatively, I have also made a bead roller/crimper out of some channel lock pliers, exhaust clamp, and crankshaft woodruff key. It worked well too, just not as pretty and a lot more work. Also, mine only works on 2" pipe. Although I'm sure you could cut the sides of the exhaust clamp to accommodate different pipe sizes.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=...05513375767560

As far as BOV, I couldn't agree with you more, louder is better. I run the Turbo XS RFL. You can get practically identical knockoffs on ebay for a fraction of the cost. We just picked up a nice blue one for Char's Vr4.

Thanks Josh, you don't think the MAF is too close to the 90? If I was going to make a lot more piping, I could see buying a tool like that, but not for one car.

**2fnloud** · 09-14-2017, 06:40 PM

I also saw this video too:

**Uniuno** · 09-14-2017, 07:26 PM

Originally Posted by 2fnloud

Thanks Josh, you don't think the MAF is too close to the 90? If I was going to make a lot more piping, I could see buying a tool like that, but not for one car.

That's how I have mine set up, works awesome, I just wish I had done it sooner. Hard to find the reducer coupler that size though (3.5 to 2.75). From what I remember, it's best to have the longest possible straight section of pipe in front of the maf. I even relocated the BOV to the wheel well so it doesn't cause turbulence. Probably not necessary, but I like having it out of the engine bay. Sounds even louder now lol. Would be sweet to run two of them with a dual core setup.

For that reason I'm more than happy just to borrow it.

**2fnloud** · 09-14-2017, 09:02 PM

Please show some pictures of your MAF placement, and how you got the BOV to the wheel well.

**2fnloud** · 09-17-2017, 08:04 AM

Received my 94 to 98-99 ECU harness back from Antero. It needed the pin conversions for the active exhaust, and while he had it I had him add the extra pin outs on the 98-99 side of the harness for the W/B 02, MAP, and the optional 12V triggers.

I also took the time to label the pins that are used for NLTS, 12V trigger, MAP sensor input, W/B O2 input.

I also labeled pin 58 on the 94 side (pin 45 on the 98-99 side) as the tachometer, remote starts need the tacho signal to know that the car is running. I have mine installed but that wire on the remote start system is running up behind the dash and to the gauge cluster. At some point I will be pulling my dash to replace the vents and this wire run this way will prevent the dash from being free to be removed. IF I tap this wire at the ECU, I will not have this problem. BUT I do no know for certain that the wire I labeled for the tachometer is correct, does anyone know?