Went plastidip crazy on my faded trim pieces. Since I had used it on the area where the spoiler was, it looked funny that the other pieces were so faded.
Now they all match!
Sent from my LG-H820 using Tapatalk
Went plastidip crazy on my faded trim pieces. Since I had used it on the area where the spoiler was, it looked funny that the other pieces were so faded.
Now they all match!
Sent from my LG-H820 using Tapatalk
Well the tease is over, time to strip it back down.
- Pulled headlights/bumper/front clip (can keep the hood on now for engine pulls with my removable front)
- Pulled seats/lower dash/shifter/carpet.
- Pulled engine/trans/driveshaft/radiator/etc.
- Removed steering rack/arms/subframe
- Cut out stock drivers side motor mount and the metal that it is welded to. Behind that "box" of metal is more perfectly smooth metal that basically matches the passenger side! I didn't have to cap it off
- Welded mounts to the subframe for the rear and center braces
- Cut and trimmed outer trans tunnel (Opened the front of it up more, you can see they need capping now at the bottom)
- Cut up excess trans tunnel underside metal and smoothed it all out. Ready for prep/paint/sealant now
- Removed ABS/charcoal canister/breather line thingy (fuel breather?)
- Mounted fuel pressure regulator/filter (not shown in picture, located behind passenger strut tower, right above the lines)
- Cleaned up, smoothed out, and painted behind passenger strut tower and under headlights (where front clip bolts to)
Mocked up brake lines from ABS delete also. Have to make a mount above the tunnel and then figure out what i am going to do for rear brake lines. Will have to make a line coming from the brake master as well. ABS braided lines still work without issue, don't need to rebuild them. Also figured out fuel lines, will be incredibly easy!
I think that's about it, probably missing a couple things. Next is finishing fuel lines, brakes, and removing AWS lines. At this point I will seriously consider putting the engine back in, even though it's not ready, and rig up some wiring for the sole reason of firing it up. This will do nothing but give me motivation and then i will take it back out lol. I have a LOT of work left to do, it really is deceiving. Fuel, tunnel, brakes, clutch, cooling, wiring, powdercoating (probably just paint as it's not worth powdercoating that turd), gas pedal, throttle linkage, driveshaft, intake, exhaust, steering shaft, gauges, engine accessories, sway bar, interior (still some brackets to make for that), suspension, HVAC, and then general car stuff like side skirts, spoiler, fluids, cleaning and painting engine bay, etc.
**PHOTO SHOT WITH A POTATO, AKA IPHONE 4**
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Project LS3S - '94 Stealth
- Build thread on 3si http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/mdoe8s-n...72/?highlight=
Picked up an SL from a friend for really cheap. Guy had the car painted back in 2002. Shortly after he blew the engine. He had it rebuilt by a local shop at RPM and never put it back in. No idea how long it's been sitting or when it was rebuilt. The kid got into drugs really bad and can't remember anything about it. He couldn't even remember if he had the motor rebuilt or not. After inspecting he obviously did. I don't even have a key for it. Looks like it has unorthadox racing cam gears and the heads were port/polished some. It's going to sit for a while since I'm still working on my shop. I may try to get it going again or I may just part it. Has some body damage and smells like moth balls really bad.
Would need wheel bearings, tie rod ends, ball joints, brakes, tires, ac condenser, ac drier, clutch, fluids, starter, and some body work. Car was green so someone painted over the lexan headlights. Then somehow the quarter panel/taill light area was damaged.
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^ Im sure if you decide to fix it, it will turn out amazing as everything you seem to build does haha
Ended up buying a new battery for the 1g. Stopped at the grocery store, went to leave and had no power while trying to start. Tried jumping it for 20 minutes and barely got a crank, new battery and it fired right up.
Kenny I think your are referring to the dead batery in my 2g at NG14. That was replaced the week following the NG 😜
This one pretty much did the same thing. Started fine, turned off the car and wouldn't start again. Battery completely toasted.
Trying to get this intercooler tubing to line up.
Waiting for some boxes with stuffs in them to show up![]()
1995 Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo
Mods: DR750s, BC Sportsman rods, Ross pistons, ACT HD 6 puck clutch, 5 speed transmission, 300M output shaft, Broomfield racing billet transfer case housings, Spectre air filter, GM 3.75" MAF w/translator, DN Pre-turbo pipes, Pampena/CX Racing dual core FMIC, M2 Performance turbo-back exhaust, Walbro 450lph E85 pump, SXPerformance fuel filter, stainless fuel feed lines, EK2 Mfg fuel rails, SXPerformance AFPR, 1000cc Bosch injectors, 99 VR4 replica ECU w/ Chrome for tuning, Kenne Bell Boost-a-Spark, Blitz SBC i-D boost controller, IPS oil cooler, Intrax springs on KYB GR2 struts, Enkei Kojin 18X9.5 +30, Nexen N3000s, 99 front end, carbon fiber steering wheel, Pioneer AVH-X2600BT, JL C2 6.5" and 6"x9" speakers, free 4 channel amp for subs (LOL), twin Alpine 10" type E subs.
Made 608whp/631wtrq on Pampena's dyno @ 31 psi.
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3000gt.com 3000GT / Stealth International WWWboard Archive Jim's (RED3KGT) Reststop |
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Team 3S 3000GT / Stealth / GTO Information daveblack.net |
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North California 3000GT/Stealth United Society of 3S Owners 3000GT/Stealth/GTO Forums 3000GT/Stealth International |
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