What brand of 20T's are you running and what size of turbine are you using?
I'd love to see a video of how they spool.
What brand of 20T's are you running and what size of turbine are you using?
I'd love to see a video of how they spool.
Dropped the rear subframe for some renovation work.
Going to wirebrush of all the rust and paint it with POR-15. Install AWS delete kit from Ninja Performance, and adjustable control arms.
Also going to attempt to make my own polymounts for the big bushings. Bought some liquid poly shore 75. Hopefully it works out.
Best of luck with the poly bushings, started down that route myself but those bushes don't have much flex so I didn't figure it'd be worth while. Be interested to see how it turns out.
In so far as the POR15, make sure you plug or mask threads so you don't have to chase that stuff out. I used Masterseries Silver and AG111, worked very well but some threads got covered and had to go retap it all again.
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Mods: 2g 3k body conversion, 2g Brake upgrade, Rota P45R rims
Projects: Interior sound deadening, 14Bs, forged bottom end, custom radiator and sound mounts
About to do halos on my bike.
1991 Stealth RT/TT
Mods- Greddy Type S and a spun bearing.
[Yesterday 11:43 PM] R/T93 : Im reading hulk comics on Youtube
[Yesterday 11:45 PM] R/T93 : he has to fight the silver surfer hand to hand...
OhioSpyderman:why do you have to pee on my wheaties Dave?
Washed my 97 vr4 and cleaned the engine bay which is stock except for the 3SX single pass radiator.
i didnt do anything to my stealth but the shop found that my turbos were getting oil starved( seals were almost gone). it make sense since my turbos always make a humming/vibrating noise when first spooling. i went ahead and had them send the turbos to boostmore for the 15g upgrade (wouldve loved billets but not in the budget). so looks like ill at least have a good base to go with until i upgrade the fuel pump, radiator, fpr, lcdbc, chrome ecu, and all the other goodies. gotta stick the 120k maintenance in there somewhere and a stage 2 clutch and trans rebuild.
About to start tearing off the aws system after letting bolts soak in wd50 for a day. The aws system was really due for delete. Beyond saving and rusted to shit.
Good thing it's mostly the aws system that is rusted. The frame itself is relatively good. Will be nice after removing some Surface rust and painting.
The rubber busings are in great condition though. Not sure if I even want to replace them since they are still so good. Living in humid climate has it downsides for rust. But for rubbers it probably extends rubbers Life alot. I imagine that in dry hot climates the rubbers will dry out and detoriate.
some pics
https://s32.postimg.org/zec0ryln7/bakvagn4.jpg
https://s32.postimg.org/rkbf6kdub/bakvagn3.jpg
I would say yes. I haven't heard anything crazy about the 370z on long term, other than guys tracking them(road course) and having oiling issues.
They are not easy to tune and mod though as the aftermarket is somewhat small(revup is about the only tuning solution) unless you want to do it on your own.
I am currently doing tuning via rom editing and flashing on some of the older Nissans that aren't supported and it's not exactly a picnic(more of a hobby.)
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Good luck with it, make sure to post pictures. I found it to be pretty easy as far as the halos themselves, most of my struggle was just due to the size of the shrouds I selected (mainly for the shape of the halos though.) If you're doing just standard round ones, should be easy.
Yeah, that's why I ended up not bothering to do those bushes myself. Do the rear diff bushings and call it good so far as that goes.
Clean the subframe and restore it, and save yourself quite a bit of time. About the only other thing would be that you could get one of the Jay Racing DSM toe eliminator instead of doing one of the existing AWS deletes. Cost is fairly similar and more or less makes the ass end one solid piece.
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