What did you do today to your 3/S?

[Beef6]

Bought an EVO MR blow off valve for it. Hopefully no more owl hooting!

[MDoe8]

whatever you just said about painting....made me cross-eyed. Lol ok only slightly. I will definitely do a bit of research and practice before digging into my engine bay. Thankfully, that's a long time away so i'll have time to practice. What's the word on air compressor requirements?

[fastfalcon94]

I painted my old green vr4 and it came out really well. It was the first full car I ever painted. I'd get a 60 gallon 3hp compressor. Tractor Supply has a porter cable one that is $4xx but usually around holidays it's $100 off. (Porter-Cable® Stationary Belt Drive Air Compressor, 60 gal. - Tractor Supply Co.) I'm using an old Husky one that I've had for 8 years. When it dies I'm going with the porter cable. You'll also want an air trap on it (~$30), and then right before your gun you'll want an inline filter (~10). Also you won't need a a full gallon of paint. When you mix it about 50% is reducer to thin it out. My green vr4 I stripped down to bare metal. I did the door jams, and underside of the hood to with 2 quarts of actual paint (so 1 gallon after reducer). There are some good youtube videos on how to adjust and clean your gun, as well as how to read mixing cups.

[MDoe8]

Nice. I don't have a 60 gallon yet. Likely won't until i give my garage the major overhaul this summer. That being said, I likely won't be ready to paint it until this summer as well

[DrGonzo]

I got this 60 gallon Husky from HomeDepot for little less than $300. It was returned to the store so they had to sell it as refurbished even though nothing on it was broken or repaired. Unit was never hooked up or even filled with oil. Works like a champ.



I ran about 15 or so feet of black iron pipe in an upside down U shape that the compressor hooks to via a flexible hydraulic line. The black Iron pipe acts as a condenser cooling the air down and gets about 80% of the water. Drain cock at the end of the pipe is used for draining. I then run it into two filters and water separators then into my flex airline kit. No water in my system at all. None of the otehr drain lines on the walls have ever had any water in them. I drain the system every night after use.

[Street_Chally73]

I too run a Husky 7 hp/60 gallon compressor ($218 on sale waay back) & have black pipe mounted 30' away with a water trap & my filter/dryer there.

I run another water separator & disposable filter on the gun and have yet to get moisture in the glass moisture separator on the gun.

Greg's system sounds like the way to go & I'll probably be adding another filter once I run more lines across the garage to ensure no moisture ever reaches the gun...I've only shot powder through it so far, but will eventually begin to do some painting.

[DrGonzo]

Here is the thread I wrote up on my completed air system. No clue why some of the images don't work. Going to assume Facebook is on the fritz again...

http://www.3sgto.org/work-safe-discu...ir-system.html

[sergechronos]

Heads are done now, working on the short block again. Turned it over, noticed it feels like a slight hitch as cyl 1 approaches TDC even with heads off. Relubricated the top end with assembly lube, going to pull the girdle and rod caps tonight/tomorrow to just check for any signs of wear at this point and double check the thrust bearing.

[sergechronos]

No signs of horrible contact. There's some scratching to the thrust washers, so maybe didn't get the thrust set properly after all. The end most mains have a couple darker marks, not sure if that's a sign of contact or just from sitting. Most people don't pull apart and analyze bearings again before even running an engine.


Addendum: With further inspection, I got the rod caps off of the two middle rods, no signs of any incidental contact there. I'll get the other 4 off tonight hopefully. Put some more assembly lube on the journals for the mains and the rods as I went since it's been sitting for a while (and likely will be for at least a few more months.)

Thrust washers were installed correctly, however I cleaned them, and reset the thrust again. Hopefully it helps.

Do have the torque wrench to back up my suspicions though, without the heads on, most of the engine requires about 10-15ft/lb to turn over, however as Cylinder 1 approached and left TDC, it jumped up to 25-29ft/lb. Not sure if I'm overanalyzing this, or if I have a genuine problem. Only things I can think at the moment: Ring dragging, piston to wall clearance is too high (Wiseco recommended a .005 I place of the standard .004 given the E85 and boost level) and I'll need to double check the paperwork from the machine shop for that. Not sure what else it may be. Going to torque the bottom end back to spec tomorrow afternoon probably and see if my issue is still there, if so, then I'll just start removing things one at a time until I find what's causing my issue.

[MDoe8]

Bitchin!