I was thinking a setup like what I had on my civic momo hub sparco wheel and I'm leaning towards 320mm cause as it is my knees hit the steering wheels
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Yesterday: popped hood to work on car, got distracted by corned beef and cabbage and beer.
1991 Dodge Stealth ES - Sold
1991 Fiji/Mystic Blue R/T TT 1 of 235(paint/R/T TT only, can't find more info, VIN is a 1 of none number)
Sold.
1992 silver VR-4 - 1 of 152 identical
Show: 99 Sails, 99 rear garnish, 2nd-gen steering wheel, Pioneer Premier h/u, aftermarket speakers(Alpine type s's I think), 10 inch JL W1 sub in spnallb corner box.
Go: 15G Turbos, FMIC, ATR DP, ACT clutch, 3-inch turbo back to dual apexi N1 mufflers, no cats, HKS SSQV3 BOV(black), PWR rad, Ksport coilovers, 3sx rear adj. control arms, ChromedECU, ECU Boost control, rebuilt TB, Cianci gauge pod w/ Defi D-series(Boost, EGT, oil pres), 93 shifter.
Soon: 550cc injectors, ChromeTune, boosties!
1987 Dodge Ramcharger - The back-up plan/winter beater. Mods: Non-computerized timing, custom white gauge faces and red LED illumination, cat-back straight pipe, Chevy seats, Ford running boards, and MOPAR everything else.
Wife's ride: 2014 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T Wifeboosties, go!
Family-mobile: 2016 Dodge Grand Caravan. Dogs love minivans!

Pulled mine out of the garage for that Spring wash to clean off the last few months of dust and crap on it. Took it for a spin to see how she drove. On the way home I hit a really bumpy road due to potholes from the snowplows and the car started to run like crap. Pulled over and found a wire on the CAS was coming out of the connector. TPS connector was loose also. Both were cracked and the wire clip was missing. So when I got home I pulled out my spare junk harness and clipped the CAS and TPS connectors off of it and replaced them.
List of things I need to take care of:
- New plugs as I was getting spark blowout pretty bad boosting over 7 psi, possibly new coil pack also as I think it is time.
- Jack the car up and do a lube job "controls arms, ball joints, tie rods, etc"
- Replace bad passenger side ECS strut and get my Techworks controller working again
- Install Skillard fuel channel
- Install Fidanza adjustable cams
- Knock out some powder coating while parts are off the car
- Fix the damn weld mark on the hood from the evil eye mod - Been driving me nuts for years!
I have been getting a lot of exhaust pop with this new engine, I installed a Maximal Cat to see if that helped but it only drowned it out some. I'm thinking the Mix of N/A and TT cams is not working too well. When I built the motor I didn't have a full set of TT cams, Just the Exhaust cams. So I matched them with the N/A intake cams as what I read in the forums that they are the same. I'm thinking mixing the cams and that fact that I have N/A heads is not a good match. So I'm going to plan on moving back to the N/A cams. Eventually I'll get TT heads but for now I'll work with what I have. The T-belt has to come off anyways for the Cam gear install so swapping the old cams back in will be done then.
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did this today I had imagined it would be brighter
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Unless you sanded the backs of the gauges they will be dim. I have white face gauges with the standard yellow / orange paint but I used so many red LEDS they light up good. Only way to make them look goo with out additional lights is to lightly sand the paint off the back of the face, and then wipe with pre-paint prep being careful not to get it on the face. At least that's how I have done it int the past.
Today I did the following on my 1999 VR4
- Installed new OEM BOV
- Installed OEM airbox with K&N flat filter
- Installed new OEM gas cap with tie down
- Installed missing rear stop light cover
- Installed new OEM BOV hose and clamps
- Ordered new tires
- Swapped my OEM VR4 Chromes to send second set for repair
- Install in OEM hoodliner with new clips
- Install new OEM shifter knob and boot
- Install new door light switches
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