Well, I'm booked for this week, but we can always work a time out to get together and sort it all out.
With the 2.0 and microsd, you don't really need much else to do the actual logging..getting it to read on the other hand..
Well, I'm booked for this week, but we can always work a time out to get together and sort it all out.
With the 2.0 and microsd, you don't really need much else to do the actual logging..getting it to read on the other hand..
Mods: 2g 3k body conversion, 2g Brake upgrade, Rota P45R rims
Projects: Interior sound deadening, 14Bs, forged bottom end, custom radiator and sound mounts
there is also these threads.
http://www.3sgto.org/tuning-engine-e...a-logging.html
http://www.3sgto.org/tuning-engine-e...ut-laptop.html
You can just copy/paste the file info into a file on the SD card called logcfg.txt. Its real easy to setup.

Yeah, it is not hard now that the definitions have been figured out.
Parting 6 speed
Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace
Pulled front head to inspect pistons. Found this. Opinions would be great. There are no sharp edges etc that could cause hot spots so I think they would probably be ok. But I'd prefer to have someone else with experience give me some advice.
Oh and this is what happens when you get to the point of pulling head bolts then realise you don't have a 10mm hex piece.put a pipe on the end of the allen key LOL.
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1990 JDM GTO TT with Vi-PEC plug-in V44 EMS, TD04-13T's, 3SX Downpipe, MP Hi-flow cat, ARC SMIC's, Aeromotive Stealth 340LPH pump, Fuelab 515 FPR, Ninja Performance 75amp hotwire kit, oohnoo fuel loop & rail adapters, Nylon braided ethanol fuel line, NGK AFX Wideband, K&N FIPK, Iridium plugs, HKS Twin Power DLI, Turbo XS racing BOV, 3SX poly mounts, Custom 280km/h speedo.
Waiting install
Injector Dynamics 725cc Injectors.
Build Thread

The pistons should be fine. If you are far enough into it, it may make sense to pull them and inspect the ringlangs and skirts.
Pretty much my thoughts, would need a hone and new rings after pulling, but that's not terribly expensive either. Good time to refresh everything.
Maybe just me but looks like signs of pinging on the pistons (all the little dimples/marks) but that may just be the lighting, or from some other debris bouncing around.. Mine had that when I tore it down, but not quite as bad. I know I had a small lean spot with mine though.
Looks like the intake valves came in coontact to me. Possibly the exhaust in one of the pics.
Help them, for they know not that which they do not know!
CoopKill's Mistress Makeover Thread!
"Punk, Nutswinging, Small Time, Asshat, Monkey, Jerkoff, Loser that rides on other peoples accomplishments!" ..

I got the other Carbon Fiber tail light done and I used the new clear coat i got. I love this new stuff. I don't even have to cut and polish it after it cures. So I'm going to do a coat of the new clear on the other taillight and they will be completed..
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Trying to do it on a budget LOL.
Timing belt tensioner pulley bolt failed. Belt came loose. Valves into pistons.
I thought this also. Plus the plugs show lean. The tune is not right. It was tuned with a 20yr old stock fuel system, 9bs and stock SMICs. I have since fitted 13ts, ARC SMICs and changed the entire fuel system to a 340lph pump (hotwired), fuelab FPR and braided lines. Stock FPR was not holding the right pressure nor rising at the right rate I believe (maxed out at 12psi). Now with the right equipment it should get enough fuel. But it needs a retune.
Yeah all intake valves are bent on both heads. Slight contact on 1 exhaust on the front. Haven't pulled the other head yet.
After pulling the rear head I'll slowly turn it and make sure the walls are all ok and everything moves freely with no weird spots then I'll just bolt the spare heads on.
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