I planned on completing the car tonight and starting it... but one of my injector seals disappearedI'm also pretty sure I can't get one locally
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I planned on completing the car tonight and starting it... but one of my injector seals disappearedI'm also pretty sure I can't get one locally
![]()
1995 Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo
Mods: DR750s, BC Sportsman rods, Ross pistons, ACT HD 6 puck clutch, 5 speed transmission, 300M output shaft, Broomfield racing billet transfer case housings, Spectre air filter, GM 3.75" MAF w/translator, DN Pre-turbo pipes, Pampena/CX Racing dual core FMIC, M2 Performance turbo-back exhaust, Walbro 450lph E85 pump, SXPerformance fuel filter, stainless fuel feed lines, EK2 Mfg fuel rails, SXPerformance AFPR, 1000cc Bosch injectors, 99 VR4 replica ECU w/ Chrome for tuning, Kenne Bell Boost-a-Spark, Blitz SBC i-D boost controller, IPS oil cooler, Intrax springs on KYB GR2 struts, Enkei Kojin 18X9.5 +30, Nexen N3000s, 99 front end, carbon fiber steering wheel, Pioneer AVH-X2600BT, JL C2 6.5" and 6"x9" speakers, free 4 channel amp for subs (LOL), twin Alpine 10" type E subs.
Made 608whp/631wtrq on Pampena's dyno @ 31 psi.
Didn't spend much time on the car today, the lady ended up being off and I felt with us both off on the same day for once it was important to adhere to the most valuable rule any car guy should know: "Happy wife, happy life."
Did work on some bushings a bit more, picked up a drill press for making new rear subframe to body bushings. Need a band saw and belt sander still, but they weren't on sale at HF yet :P
Was going to work on degreeing the cams (still stock, but heads have been decked to the limit and alignment on stuff is off) however, my solid tensioner won't bolt up. Bolt holes are just slightly off, not sure if it's an issue with the chamfer for clearance on the tensioner not being recessed enough, or if I need to clearance the oil pump. Would guess maybe an issue with the bolt holes, but it's the tensioner I let Maddog use for the testing on how the tensioners move so clearly it bolts up. Not sure what year oil pump he used it with.
Mods: 2g 3k body conversion, 2g Brake upgrade, Rota P45R rims
Projects: Interior sound deadening, 14Bs, forged bottom end, custom radiator and sound mounts
I am officially done driving my car this year as we got snow and salted the roads. So I brought my insurance down to comprehensive. My friend finished welding my passenger seat bracket together and I tried it out. Definitely much lower, my hair no longer rubs on the ceiling and I'm able to go back farther. I don't think you could get the seat any lower with sliders.
Left is with my bracket, right is with corbeaus bracket.
I still need to weld up drivers side, and fab the seat belt bracket for each side. Then I'll primer/paint them.
Gas tank has been grinded down and coated, and while not pictured, the area where it mounts under the car has as well. Needs a 2nd coat plus the top coat, but already looks miles better. Got several samples of GXL and TXL wire in, going to compare sizes, measure ODs and see how much bigger it'll make the harnesses to rewire the car as such.
Spent some time working on wirewheeling the under side of the car..Suffice to say, it's a mess. Even with cover alls and a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a cup brush, it's a pain and gets everywhere. And of course, trying to work with an angle grinder for that long makes your hands go numb, always worrisome when you're working with a grinder in front of your face. My face shield is in desperate need of replacement since I can't see for shit through it. Glasses keep me from being able to just wear goggles and it also makes wearing a dust mask a pain in the ass since it forever fogs up my glasses.
Last edited by sergechronos; 11-24-2014 at 07:21 PM.
Finally finished putting it together after the clutch swap. Initially it was running really rough but after about 15 minutes it cleared up. Now the only problem is it's idling high. I turned the BISS screw all the way down but it's still ~1600rpm. The only thing I changed is the pcv system. I had both krank vents with no stock pcv before, now it's open atmosphere (yes I plugged the hole in the lower intake manifold). Any ideas? I'm thinking I should see if I can get April to build me a TB since I'm pretty sure my IAC is bad.
You need a standalone like AEM to get rid of wasted spark and take advantage of COP
Im running 20PSI on my COP setup without issues (using chrome to play with the settings). If you planning on running in the mid 20s PSI or higher then I probably wouldnt recommend it without going to a setup that has 6 coil drivers (AEM).
Or an Emanage Ultimate. This is my current setup using 6x GDI coils
The only issue I'm having is they'll overheat and start to break down after about 30 minutes of driving due to the excessive dwell time (which isn't adjustable). This is why I've gone with the smart AEM coils which will be happy anywhere from 1-9 ms dwell time.
At a glance, the AEM units have a very similar output to the stock Diamond coils except I'll have 6 of them and they're no longer running wasted spark. Should be good for a few PSI at a decent gap.
Last edited by box; 11-27-2014 at 03:08 AM.
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