What did you do today to your 3/S?

[DK77]

So, would I need any special tools to replace the input shaft bearings? I'm thinking that's possibly the cause of my rattle when the clutch is not pressed.

[sergechronos]

As far as I'm aware there are no more new input shaft bearings available from Getrag/Mitsu, you'd have to contact vendors to see if they have any stock or good used ones left. I have one of my own, but holding it till I get my trans torn down and see what shape mine is in. Would take a pretty good offer to get me to part with it ATM.

Replacing it requires separating the bellhousing, removing the input shaft bearing snapring with a pair of snap ring pliers (straight ones work best), and then have to press it out with a press from the mid case side.

[Jimvr4]

Somewhere I read there's a guy in the UK that can make them but we would need to get some interest and setup a GB

[sergechronos]

There is an aftermarket company that makes input shaft bearings, but non-OEM obviously. I may still do some research into it.

A non-OEM one still beats a worn out used one that rattles.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

R seems to be pretty prone to being wiped. 2nd right behind it. There is a GM gear puller intended for like a rear differential that works for pulling those out. Just be careful not to damage the races.

Might be the one at the machine shop now, or the one that's going Monday. There's a few of them getting that done here

good to hear, don't get mine mixed up with the others don't want to reset all the pre-loads.

[sergechronos]

Lol Chris has them all marked and laid out in specific areas so as not to mix them up. I just do as he says and soak up knowledge. Lots and lots of knowledge.

[DK77]

I know Jack's can get the non-OEM bearings.

I'm thinking for now I'm just going to do the clutch and put in the new fork/ball I ordered and see if that helps. If not, I'll deal with replacing the shaft bearings when either a leak develops or something else goes wrong with the trans. I certainly tend to eat synchros at a disgusting rate.

[sergechronos]

good to hear, don't get mine mixed up with the others don't want to reset all the pre-loads.

Sneak preview just for you

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

Sneak preview just for you

Thanks! p.s. I think the brace is upside down. According to ray:

"hey man dont know why the PM is lost.. the chamfer goes down. grind the case until the brace sits flush with the main bearing area. the brace will be slightly above the counter shaft bearing area because those to areas are not level "

Thanks again

[familyMAN]

I don't understand why the chamfer would go down. Wouldn't that leave an airgap under the brace unless you counter sink and match the chamfer perfectly?

With chamfer out, you have a good place to weld.

Maybe in visualizing wrong and someone can straighten me out.