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Thread: What did you do today to your 3/S?

  1. #6681
    Now with more poop-smear Not Verified
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    Quote Originally Posted by OhioSpyderman View Post
    Hood fitment guarantee? LOL
    precisely. it's almost where you'd want to buy only FG & have a custom shop add/shave material so it has a good fit.

    FWIW, i'm not completely unhappy with how my scoote2 fits, but there are bulges where i've got low-pressure shocks. I'm not sure if they're from the low pressure shocks or what. pins/aerocatch might actually help fix that...but IDK. I'm leaning more towards stock hood w/ expertly-cut vents or something. maybe go full ghetto & do deuce-coupe style louvers across the entire hood.

  2. #6682
    I don't bite
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    Quote Originally Posted by familyMAN View Post
    My carbon hood weighs 5.5 lbs without hinges or pins. Stock weighs 55lbs without hinges or shocks. It will be a 50lb savings when I eventually install using stock hinges but deleting shocks.
    Installed

    Quote Originally Posted by Ange View Post
    which brand hood do you use?
    Quote Originally Posted by anyonebutme View Post
    @ 5 lbs, only hood it could be is the dry carbon Cianci victory that only like 5 were made.
    No idea which hood. Bought it used and in rough shape. It's a 1g, stock style, no fluff. It is VERY thin. Both the main skin and the support structure are very light weight. It's not a looker or robust, but it's light. It will eventually get painted, which will kill the weight savings with added weight of primer, base and clear...lol.

    edit: 5.5 lbs
    Last edited by familyMAN; 09-17-2014 at 02:18 AM.
    1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.

  3. #6683
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    Whatever it is Eric, it needs more boost.

    Don't recall that being the one you had on it last time I was that way. Vent it yet, or is that not much of an issue with the 4g63 arrangement?
    Mods: 2g 3k body conversion, 2g Brake upgrade, Rota P45R rims
    Projects: Interior sound deadening, 14Bs, forged bottom end, custom radiator and sound mounts

  4. #6684
    I don't bite
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    Just installed the hood Sunday. Have had it and the fiberglass hatch in a box for 3 years and finally got to the hood. Hatch is next after I get a sheet of tinted lexan to install.

    No extractor vent on this one (too much cracking issues since I have to section it to fit). I do have a potential project up my sleeve though. Need to order parts and start mocking it up. I'm a form and function guy so it has to have both. Was reading some aero research papers last night. Function is up in the air at this point. Form will be easy to determine once I order the parts. Unfortunately it seems function may have to be tested on my car for my specific application to determine and once I cut a hole in my hood it will be a PITA to put it back Oh well, hasn't stopped me before!

  5. #6685
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    Sounds like NACA ducts are in your future for a low drag high airflow solution.

    Ever consider making using your original hood as a base and laying new fiberglass over the top of it to make a mold then working backwards from that? Would give you your vent built in, and hopefully be less likely to crack. Even with 3-4 layers thick, would still be a fraction of the weight of the OEM hood.

  6. #6686
    I think the skeleton underneath would be the hard part. And getting a flush edge. A shop near me just started making cf roofs for imprezas using this method. You can look them up on fb by searching for "kale's custom." I've dealt with some fiberglass in the wood strip canoes I've made. This is the kayak I'm working on. I could make a wood strip hood that wouldn't need reinforcing underneath. IDK what kind of affect the heat would have on it.


    Built motor, DR750s, AEM and Meth
    http://www.802projects.com

  7. #6687
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    Quote Originally Posted by sergechronos View Post
    Sounds like NACA ducts are in your future for a low drag high airflow solution.

    Ever consider making using your original hood as a base and laying new fiberglass over the top of it to make a mold then working backwards from that? Would give you your vent built in, and hopefully be less likely to crack. Even with 3-4 layers thick, would still be a fraction of the weight of the OEM hood.
    Good guess. Thinking naca duct, turbo intake for some forced, forced induction. Lol. The headlight inlets are good for 2-3lbs/min. Not sure if naca would do the same because of turbulence (unfortunately research says it's hit or miss as well). May not be worth the trouble.

  8. #6688
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    I'd certainly try it on an OEM hood with tuft testing before cutting on the fiberglass one

  9. #6689
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    Yeah thought about using the OEM hood that has the hole for the vent. Just need to seal up the current vent hole first.

    I'm keeping my original hood unscathed and stored. Donniekak donated the extra hood for the extractor vent several years ago.

  10. #6690
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    I've contemplated my options for venting and ducting the 2g hood, hard to find stuff that flows with the body lines as well though. Did quite a bit of research on the NACA ducts as I considered turning the side skirts into functional NACA ducting for the rear brakes, however ran into the same issues you did (hard to predict exactly how it'll go until it's done.)

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