Interesting Donnie, I had not heard anything bad about the ACT stuff. I just bought an ACT 6-puck with the sprung disc and I have an RPS Max PP with the 6 puck unsprung in the car right now. I figure I'll leave this clutch in until it acts ups.
TeotwawkiL The front motor mount is not too bad. Way easier than the rear at least. If you take the radiator out there's quite a bit of room to work with.
1995 Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo
Mods: DR750s, BC Sportsman rods, Ross pistons, ACT HD 6 puck clutch, 5 speed transmission, 300M output shaft, Broomfield racing billet transfer case housings, Spectre air filter, GM 3.75" MAF w/translator, DN Pre-turbo pipes, Pampena/CX Racing dual core FMIC, M2 Performance turbo-back exhaust, Walbro 450lph E85 pump, SXPerformance fuel filter, stainless fuel feed lines, EK2 Mfg fuel rails, SXPerformance AFPR, 1000cc Bosch injectors, 99 VR4 replica ECU w/ Chrome for tuning, Kenne Bell Boost-a-Spark, Blitz SBC i-D boost controller, IPS oil cooler, Intrax springs on KYB GR2 struts, Enkei Kojin 18X9.5 +30, Nexen N3000s, 99 front end, carbon fiber steering wheel, Pioneer AVH-X2600BT, JL C2 6.5" and 6"x9" speakers, free 4 channel amp for subs (LOL), twin Alpine 10" type E subs.
Made 608whp/631wtrq on Pampena's dyno @ 31 psi.
I didn't do squat to my cars today, but I did replace the alternator in my wife's SAV (Suburban Assault Vehicle) - AKA - 2002 Chrysler Town and Country.
Her battery light came on yesterday a couple of times, so I dug into it today. Static battery voltage seemed OK at 12.4 volts. Started it and the meter was all over the map...13.6, 13.0, 13.3, 12.8...figured for sure it was the alternator...
Took the POS out, took to the local O'reillys to give them a core. For shits and grins I had them test it. 3 times in a row it tested good (WTF?) The counter guy said "bring the battery in and I'll test it", so I went back got the battery.
He put it on his mini tester, looked up at me and said "It says it's good, just needs a charge" DOH!
He put the battery on their charger and I went home to wait for results (said about an hour). Called and he said the battery was good, had about 1/4 of its life left (BULLSHIT, I just bought that battery in January), so I went up, told him to keep my core alternator and PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE sell me a new (reman) alternator for $180..he happily did.
Install went off with no minor issues, voltage with SAV running is now a pretty solid 14.0 volts.
What did we learn today? Never trust auto parts testing. In car testing gives much BETTER results.
Carry on, nothing to see here....
Bob.![]()
Last edited by OhioSpyderman; 08-24-2014 at 05:44 PM. Reason: spelling is a BIG challenge :)
95 Caracus Red Spyder VR4 (sold 6/12/21 )
Cianci FG Viper Hood/Aerocatch Pins
Quad Carbon Fiber Tipped Borla Catback
Stock 18" 6 Spoke Chromies
K&N FIPK
Indiglo Gauges
JimVR4's Remote Start/Top Op Computer
92 Wheat Beige Metallic Stealth TT (sold 6/14/20)
OhioSpyderman Short Shifter (in both!!!)
SBC-iD Boost Controller (in both!!!)
Oldest son - 94 Danube Blue VR4 (sold 10/19)
Middle son - 93 Panama Green VR4
I helped out a guy that traveled two hours to get a tune. He had a shop do a smoke test but it had so many vacuum and boost leaks that we gained around 100hp. We had to install a few check valves he didn't realize he had taken out when he was replacing hoses. One of the brake booster hoses didn't have the check valve in it and that was the worse.
We also maxed out the 800cc injectors at 20 psi on E85 running DR-650s. We bumped up the fuel pressure and retuned for 22 psi. At that point the Spec clutch would get hot enough sometimes on the pulls it occasionally slipped so he'll be getting a RPS clutch.
I'm not very sold on the champion race plugs. Trevor recommended them to him because they work together on airplanes, but idle would occasionally miss and WOT was a little pickier misfiring on ethanol. It cut out real bad in the 10s. 11.8 to 12.1 AFR seemed to work the best for the cleanest pull. He was a happy camper at the end of the day with the car running like a champ.![]()
95 RT/TT Billet TD04s E70, DW1000cc injectors, ARC-2 with 92mm maf, 3SX fuel rail loop, hotwired Walbro 416/485, 3" FMIC, single small Krank vent, DR 3.5" downpipe and cat-back, DNP 02 housings, Hallman Pro MBC, BlackStealth LCDBC, AEM wideband, AEM oil pressure, Apexi S1 coilovers with SCE EVO 8/9 adapters, 3SX adjustable control arms, Spec 3+ clutch, Maximal solids/3SX poly motor mounts, Setrab custom SMOC, stock motor 127k miles, stock drivetrain.
The wife and I went for a hike in the foothills yesterday and on the way I had to stop and snap a pic. Could be washed again but considering its a DD and its rained briefly basically every day last week i dont think its too bad.
![]()
Maybe these will help. I finally had a chance to wash the grime off the car and snap some new pictures. These shots still came from a cell phone camera but I provided multiple shots with the wing both up and down.
And just for reference here is the old wing the up position during the NG13 Auto-X
DSC_8571.jpg
As you can see, the new wing sits up higher and is both longer and wider.
photo(2).jpg
Wrapping up VSS project. Has been long road, hoping to start her up tomorrow.... Seasons are short up here, hope to get some road time before....you know....
Powder coating was done through Terry @ Maximal Performance. I am real happy how it turned out, will be happier to drive it again!
Do you think my oil pan is dented?
SmashedPan3.jpg
This is what happens when you hit a power steering pump that falls off the car being towed in front of you. Only took me a few months to get motivated to start swapping the new pan.
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