didn't know you were getting surging, paul. keep us posted on how/what you use for balancing it.
didn't know you were getting surging, paul. keep us posted on how/what you use for balancing it.
So, I did some experimenting with some different paints, and here's what I came up with. I was using a GM paint called Torch Red. After spending some time comparing that was the very closest I could get to our own Firestorm Red.
What I had done was use two different primers to see which one would darken, or lighten the color of the Torch Red to make it a more acceptable pair with the original on my car. In the pictures, you can see the sideskirt which I had used a white primer on, is a "perfect" match to that of the door. Whereas the door cap which I had used a brown primer on, is quite a bit darker than the door. (Door being original Firestorm Red)
In person, I can guarantee you that I can see absolutely ZERO difference in the paint, regardless of lighting or shade, it is as close to a perfect match you`ll get without going to the actual Firestorm Red itself.
I hope this helps some people in a bind for a quick fixes if need be.
Drove the piss out of it at Autox. Now my Throw Out Bearing squeaks.
adjusted my clutch pedal all the way out and she doesnt creep anymore when i have it in and 2stepin
1/4 mile 11.80 @117mph. 551whp 641trq @ 26psi E85 tune, MTC 19T-HLs, forge 15psi spring wastegates, 780 PTE inj, 3SX Fuel loop, ss fuel lines, Engine built by Laniers Speed shop, block bored .060 w/ chromolly rings, weisco pistons, 3sx custom forged rods, forged crank, HKS DLI, AEM EMS, AEM UEGO wideband, prosport oil and boost guages, aeromotive 1000 FPR, Dejon blow thru twintakes, Walbro E85 400 w/ 3sx hotwire kit and custom an fitting fuel pump w/ STM filter to pump line, CXRacing FMIC, Megan Racing Aluminum radiator, IPS custom downpipe, Borla 3" exhaust,Greddy profec b spec II EBC, Blitz SS BOV,R1 Drilled slotted rotors, Drag DR-31 rims, RPS stage 4 unsprung clutch,
Pretty much, I asked Jeff what part he connected to before I started but I just put one side of the chain to the part that holds the linkage and one that holds the cables. I meant to take a pic, I'll do it when I put it back in.
I'm still getting a little bit. I'll post about it when I get it done and get some results.
So, i bled the clutch and it was still creeping a bit. Then adjusted the clutch pedal more and its perfect now. I think my clutch booster diaphragm might be going bad. Its good now, but is there any way to do a booster delete and just do a clutch rod to master cylinder?

you'd probably have to run the NA master cylinder and pedal assembly
Parting 6 speed
Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace
Anybody know what the difference between the AWD slave vs the FWD slave? Cherry hill lists two different ones but in the book they don't show anything different.

TT has a longer plunger, not by much, to engage the clutch. I used a FWD on mine for some time until it eventually failed and I replaced it with an Autozone one for like $30.00......
Was home sick most of today so figured I could at least take pictures of the FMIC install I finished up this past weekend.
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