My guide for door handles, locks, and switches. Step by step w/ pics!

**Gearheadvr4** · 02-25-2011, 01:21 AM

I don't know how to add this to the how to section, but if a mod knows, please tell me.

1. First step is to pull the door panel. There are excellent guides elsewhere and it's almost self explanatory.

2. Gather your tools. Only very basic tools are needed. 10mm socket, #3 phillips screw bit, and a screwdriver or long needle nose for clips.

3. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the door handle on.

4. Remove the harness for the lock cylinder.

5. Start removing the small metal leads from the clips on the door handle and lock cylinder. Be careful since they can be brittle just pop the clip to the side and pull out the lead.

6. If you need to replace or check the switch then remove to two #3 screws form the top and bottom. They can be tricky to reach. Remember the wire harness on the bottom and the clip to the metal lead.

7. Next remove the door handle. Lift up the handle and slide the assembly slightly back and up. Be careful with the wire harness coming out of the lock cylinder. This needs finesse not brute force. You can leave the harness in the door if it is not damaged. You will need to unclip the retaining ring from the lock. 1st and 2nd gen setups have a different style lock. When removing the door handle you can leave the lock in the door handle or unclip the lock cylinder from the door handle and leave it in place. (I removed mine to repair the harness and change the locks.)

8. Use the screwdriver ( or some long needlenose to remove the clips from the lick cylinder harness. Take care and try not to break them. You'll thank yourself later during reassembly. There are 3 clips.

**Gearheadvr4** · 02-25-2011, 01:46 AM

9. Once you get the clips loose the door handle should slide out. Remember how the lock cylinder harness is routed to save time later during reassembly.

10. Here you can see the door handle and switch. 1st and 2nd gen setups are virtually the same other than the lock cylinder. The 1st gen has a a 2 wire harness and a larger black connector. 2nd gen has the 3 wire and small connector. This is due to the addition of the ETACTS alarm I believe.

Assembly is just the same but in reverse. That's it!

Oh and you now have access to the door latch if you need to remove that. Just unclip the leads and unscrew the mechanism from the side of the door.

**speedy25** · 02-25-2011, 12:23 PM

Its MUCH easier to remove the switch off the end of the lock than mess with the wire lead and its anchors.

Edit your initial post to say #2 phillips screwdriver. Thats the right size for all the screws.

-SP

**Flash Gordon** · 02-25-2011, 01:59 PM

Are those tools laying on your hood

**Gearheadvr4** · 02-25-2011, 06:14 PM

It is a #3 screw bit. It fit perfect. A #2 slipped and wouldn't grab the screw. This was verified on 4 doors across 2 vehicles. I was surprised, but it is a #3.

Sometimes that harness for the lock cylinder is bad or broken. (like one of mine was) So I wanted to show how to remove it during the process. But yes, if you are just removing the door handle or lock cylinder it's much easier to leave that harness in place. Just remove the retaining clip ring from the back of the lock and the harness can be removed easy. This is for a 2nd gen. 1st gen it may be better to pull the harness with the lock as you can see in the pic below.

That was on my parts car hood, not a big deal. If it ever runs again it will get repainted.

**Rocket** · 02-25-2011, 09:06 PM

PM Alan and he can get this into the How To section.. GREAT JOB!

**Bob** · 02-26-2011, 01:51 AM

Great write-up! I'll be removing mine in the spring for a repaint. This thread will be very helpful! Thanks.

**Gearheadvr4** · 02-27-2011, 08:18 PM

No problem. I'll PM Alan so hopefully this thread can be of help to others later.

I know doors and locks are not nearly as fun as turbos, engines, and boost controllers. But if a clip breaks off or your locks go out from the harness being broke or your alarm trips every time you unlock your car that could get annoying very quick. The engine and mechanical stuff has never been an issue for me, it's always those nagging electrical or little things that bug me so much.

**Jimvr4** · 06-03-2011, 10:53 AM

Just went through this, thanks for the writeup. Couple of things to add here. I didn't see any mention of disconnecting the rod that actuates the door handle. There are plastic retaining clips that hold the rod into the handle at the right angle bend. The clips have to be opened and pushed back to release the rod. I pulled both drivers and passenger handles, the drivers side clip was white and the passenger side was yellow. So my list of steps went like this:

1) Place duct tape on the door panel to protect the paint when you start moving the handle around
2) Remove the two 10mm screws, one at the door edge, one with an extension accessed through a hole in the door panel
3) lift the handle up and out until you can access the lock cylinder
4) Pry off the retaining clip and push the cylinder into the door while holding the clip and the plastic insert. The cylinder won't fall into the door as it is held by a rod and harness
5) Pull the handle out further and rotate it up until it pops out of the door panel
6) Disconnect the plastic retaining clip from the rod and the handle is free. The lock cylinder remains in the door

My lock harness was good so I left the cylinder in the door. Also I was able to do it this way without pulling the plastic film from the inside of the door panel