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Thread: The Quest to fit 10 Inch Wide Rims on the front.!

  1. #41
    One day....it will be on 4 wheels. supporter
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    and, I need to try the 6kg springs on the front and see if it makes the car more livable.
    Building a House, Car Mods on hold!
    1996 GTO, Owner since 2003.

  2. #42
    One day....it will be on 4 wheels. supporter
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    ok, showing the strut top at full adjustment....nothing really fancy about it...just showing space around it for more adjustment



    and here is the 6kg springs from the rear set of shocks:



    They are actually coiled 4mm thinner...does not make them fit on the front shocks so well...showing stock front vs rear coil:


    and this shot shows the TOTAL travel compressing that the teins have...pretty shit...I'd say somewhere around 2-3" maximum (once you talk droop + the top hat that sits over the shaft...)


    what it looks like on


    and showing that the 6kg coil can not hold the front of the car's weight at ALL and as such the car just sits on the bump stops (1-1.5" down the full shock travel)


    Fucking YAY.

  3. #43
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    my plates allow same adjustments as teins but are just stronger .

  4. #44
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    damn...ever considered making them able to be moved further back for more castor?

  5. #45
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    not really i didnīt want to change the front suspension geometry too much.

  6. #46
    great thread.

    My wheels are 9,5 ET35 and rear 10.5 ET35, all on 19" - they are Volk GR2 Vr.2 (New TE37 Vr. 2)

    however, they dont clear the rear oem calipers - but thats not a problem as I will upgrade them.

    Michael: I like those wheels that you've found , pretty cheap and they look great, also they might fit.
    I wish I have invested less in my wheels and have bought some other upgraded parts.

    are these KSport brakes? it looks so oem having them painted black
    Last edited by stealthTT; 03-01-2011 at 10:58 AM.

  7. #47
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    Doesn't a larger bar on the front typically increase understeer?
    On a car with a proper front suspension, all else being equal, yes.

    On a car with a McStrut, the car has crappy (which is to say, minimal) camber gain in roll. Where a double A-arm can be designed to increase the amount of negative camber in roll (so as to keep the tire flat on the roll as the car rolls), that cannot be done with a McStrut. So the more roll you have, the less tire you have on the ground.

    (Well, it's more about the pressure loading across the face of the tire, rather than physically prying part of the tire off the ground, but the net effect is the same)

    The ticker front bar resists the roll. Less roll means more tire contact, which is more grip. The bigger bar also means more weight transfer, which means less grip (this is the mechanism that usually increases oversteer with a big front bar) But the grip *gained* due to correcting camber is greater than the grip *lost* due to weight transfer, so the net effect is a grip gain.

    This works right up to the point where the inside tire is lifted off the ground, at which point all your grip comes from the outside tire. This is a common setup on McStrut cars like Mustangs, Camaros, and 1990s M3s.

    Better one happy tire and one pissed off tire than two pissed off tires.

    On an AWD, this works up to the point where you lift the inside tire off the ground - then the diffs go crazy. So you can get more grip with a front bar, but you can't get as much as you can with a RWD with the same suspension (and a thicker front bar).

    DG

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  9. #48
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    lots of - camber up front helps to reduce understeer

  10. #49
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    That doesn't work.

    When you run a lot of static negative camber, what you are really doing is trying to predict what the ultimate roll angle is, and set the static camber angle such that at full roll, the *dynamic* camber is optimal. That's fine, except that with reasonably sticky tires and stock springs/bars, you can easily see 3-5 degrees of roll, which means you need 3-5 degrees of static negative camber to compensate. That has serious consequences to straight line grip (accel and braking) and to tire wear. Plus the wrong side tire is now looking at negtive 6-10 degrees of dynamic camber and contributing very little to grip.

    You're far better off to reduce the maximum amount of roll with a thicker front bar. You still have to set static negative to compensate, but now you're looking at 1-2 degrees static negative which is a lot easier to deal with. Plus you are trasferring load onto the happy tire which is better able to deal with it.

    DG

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  12. #50
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    Iīm not an expert with this stuff at all but i tracked my old 3000gt few times and noticed it helps alot with all stock drivetrain and stock bars.

    posting this video once again . From puma crew " front suspension -3" lowered and front camber -6 in this race and 245 tires"
    Last edited by mb7050; 08-18-2012 at 11:05 AM.

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