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Thread: Who has Tuned with no NB02s?

  1. #21
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    gatecrasher couldn't probably tell you better from looking at the stock code, but IIRC the stock ecu counts the number of sweeps passed that center value. It is worth a shot though.

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  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post
    gatecrasher couldn't probably tell you better from looking at the stock code, but IIRC the stock ecu counts the number of sweeps passed that center value. It is worth a shot though.
    Man that's a bummer.. I guess I could try just .5V constant or maybe make the "window" for the scaling huge (instead of like 13AFR/1V-16AFR/0V or whatever make it like 8AFR/1V-22AFR/0V so it has no resolution. It would probably still alter the trims over time though but maybe it I center it around my ideal cruising AFR it won't change much?

  3. #23
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    Does anyone know if the ECU throws a light for the heater circuit or because it's not getting a signal or both? If it's just the heater, I could plug everything back in and just cut the signal wire..

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    Anyone?

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    Don`t know off hand, best bet is to measure the resistance on the heater coils and wire a resistor in of the same value to try?.

    I`ve been running for years with no 02 and no CEL.

  6. #26
    HLxDrummer:
    I'm assuming you have a 2gen since you're throwing a cel? I disconnected my NB02's and I don't have your issue. But I'm using MAFT-pro and I have a 1g so no cel.

    What if you just feed one of the LC-1's outputs to the ecu (in place of where the NB02's were) and change the scaling so that is either pegged rich or lean. The ECU will give up trying to adjust with fuel trims after a while when it realizes it can't change the AFR and just go into open loop. Or would that cause a cel also?

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    I actually have a 1G (1993). Drove home this weekend and confirmed that once it throws the CEL that it knocks worse. So the ECU is doing something so actually make knock worse for some reason.

    I think instead of wiring in a resistor I would just snip the signal wire and leave the heater circuit in tact. I'm not sure if that would solve the issue or not though.

    I considered pegging it rich or lean, but then my airflow corrections will be huge. I also tried leaving them plugged in and putting in a ton of correction to max the trims but that was a PITA and didn't really work.

    Looks like I'll try snipping the signal wire and if that doesn't work wire in some O2 simulators even though I would prefer not to..

  8. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by HLxDrummer View Post
    I actually have a 1G (1993).
    Weird...maybe a late model 93?


    Quote Originally Posted by HLxDrummer View Post
    I considered pegging it rich or lean, but then my airflow corrections will be huge.
    If the ecu can't make the trims get close to 100% then it will give up and just go into open loop (same as unplugging them). Of course the downside is that if you reset the ecu it will have to "relearn" that it can't correct the trims before it goes back to open loop (but that shouldn't take more than 10-15mins of driving).

  9. #29
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    I don't know why people think 1Gs don't throw CEL for o2s. Both my '92s have done it.
    '92 Dodge Stealth RT/TT - Aug. 2012 COTM

  10. #30
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    Well I`ve done 2 years or more with no o2 near the car and no CEL.. Must be ECU specific.
    GTO-TT, PTE 1200's, M20, Emanage Ultimate, OS Geiken R3C,
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