Who has Tuned with no NB02s?

[B-Man]

Hrmmmmm

Mine, if I mash it when I get 14-15counts of knock, it goes away immediately. I do usually just keep it out of the under 2k range.

Since the EMB is pre-ECU, you're timing will be more advanced than stock. I really can't imagine it being enough (unless you have ungodly huge injectors) to cause this much knock, especially if you're pulling 3-4 degrees.

PS, I should probably change my sig since I haven't run 18psi since NG. I lowered it to 15psi because of really bad spikes. Shitty boost controller. *grumblegrumble*

[B-Man]

Bad knock sensor maybe? Does it have goo oozing out the top of it?

I'm not saying that it's for sure not a bad or overly sensitive knock sensor, but characteristics of a bad knock sensor are usually it knocking all the time.

[HLxDrummer]

I've considered that but it acts fine when I have the O2s plugged in.. I haven't checked it in a while though I'll have to take a look soon

[DocWalt]

I'm not saying that it's for sure not a bad or overly sensitive knock sensor, but characteristics of a bad knock sensor are usually it knocking all the time.

True, but not necessarily. Just something to check.

[HLxDrummer]

Hrmmmmm

Mine, if I mash it when I get 14-15counts of knock, it goes away immediately. I do usually just keep it out of the under 2k range.

Since the EMB is pre-ECU, you're timing will be more advanced than stock. I really can't imagine it being enough (unless you have ungodly huge injectors) to cause this much knock, especially if you're pulling 3-4 degrees.

PS, I should probably change my sig since I haven't run 18psi since NG. I lowered it to 15psi because of really bad spikes. Shitty boost controller. *grumblegrumble*

I haven't really gotten on the gas when it was knocking so I couldn't tell you what mine does under that situation.

I'm actually running stock injectors still and I'm needing to add anywhere from 5-15% fuel on the EMB so it should be retarding it if anything, right?

Is your car pretty similar to mine (in how it acts with the knock/etc)? Also, have you considered using a GM Boost Control Solenoid for a EBC? Pretty cheap..


Also, what do you think about trying O2 simulators? That would definitely tell us if it's the O2s actually being unplugged causing the problem.

[B-Man]

As a 7th injector? Eh, I've though about it, but heard it doesn't work all that well. If I'm gonna do it, I'm gonna do it right.

Have you checked for boost leaks? You should be able to just zero out your EMB map with stock injectors (or even lean it out up top).

[HLxDrummer]

Ya that's what I meant. Hopefully it works out well as I've just installed it this summer but haven't tuned it yet. I'll let you know how it works out.

I checked for boost leaks a while back and just had TB seal leakage. Replaced the seals although I don't think I fixed the problem (shitty seals). Plan to replace them again soon. With the O2s in I have it zero'd out but with them unplugged I needed to add some fuel to quell the knock.

I do think I found the some important information tonight. Put my "No O2" tune back on and unplugged them, reset the battery. Drove it and it drove great, no knock! A few miles later, the ECU threw the CEL and knock is back.. So it must have something to do with them being unplugged/limp mode. I think I may try this:

http://www.o2simulator.com/index.php...7a3003f681cb48

Just to keep the computer happy and hopefully keep the CEL away. I would just hate to waste the money and solder more crap into my car.

[a2j]

I will be running without O2s. but this topic is kind of scaring me now.
should there really be any legitimate knock on low/no boost? with the right A/F ratio and EGTs...

[B-Man]

If you're still using Airflow metering, I'd keep the O2s. I actually kinda of regret going MAFless.

[HLxDrummer]

I will be running without O2s. but this topic is kind of scaring me now.
should there really be any legitimate knock on low/no boost? with the right A/F ratio and EGTs...

With the stock ECU and a piggyback?

There shouldn't be any but something is causing it when the CEL comes on. I think if you can keep the light off (O2 sim or run a false signal from your wideband to it) it would be fine.

If you're still using Airflow metering, I'd keep the O2s. I actually kinda of regret going MAFless.

Well I think I fouled mine out from running with them unplugged for a while and I would like to make it work without them so I may try a little longer but if it doesn't work well I'll put them back. Definitely not going MAFless with the eManage after all the complaints I've heard.


What do you guys think of running a constant .48-.52V signal from the LC-1 to the NBO2s? Is it smart enough to see it's not sweeping from 0-1 or will it be happy with that signal?