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Thread: Has anyone had an success re-using a crankshaft thats' spun a bearing?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roy View Post
    Would a 2-bolt block with different studs be able to handle 1000AWHP? My turbo and fuel system will be able to handle it, so I'd like to build a motor that can as well.
    No, you will push the girdle off the block. You limit will be around 700AWTQ.

    -Chris

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    Thanks, thats what I always thought. 4-bolt or stroker it is.
    1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - Single Turbo - http://roycormier.net

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    exactly. i can't speak for what your ultimate goals are; but if they're to have the capacity for 4-digit dyno runs...then you need 4-bolts. i would simply suggest a stroker because, imho, you won't have to strain as hard to get there.

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    i just want to put that in my car, the previous owner spun a bearing rebuilt the engine, and turned the crank, rebuild took all his money sold the car, i proceded to buy it, and spun a bearing again 60 miles after buying it, so in my experiance it doesnt work

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    and that's essentially useless info. we have no info on HOW the rebuild was done, if it was done properly, or anything. i'm not saying that such a situation couldn't happen--even under ideal circumstances, but you didn't do the build. you have NO idea about anything that happened with it.

    i've posted it in another thread, but it bears repeating here. i firmly believe that there's a LOT of people who don't really know how to rebuild an engine properly--at least not a 6g72 tt. it's these same people who have given these cars a reputation for being unreliable.

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    and i completely agree with you all i was saying was that in my circumstance it didnt work, just giving my feedback to help out

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    Quote Originally Posted by dragonmon445 View Post
    and i completely agree with you all i was saying was that in my circumstance it didnt work, just giving my feedback to help out
    apologies. i wasn't trying to jump on your case. i was just trying to suggest that many of the "failures" people seem to have are, at best, difficult to trace to a re-used, turned crank. it's never a direct cause-effect. too many variables.

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    you make a very valid point, but from what i can see the rebuild was done perfect minus the crank, im not saying that was the only reason, just in my case it seemed to be the causing factor, but im sure something wasnt done right. if done correctly i have heard turning the crank can work

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    wow. you should just stop posting now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by steve68 View Post
    Sometimes when a crank has spun a bearing, the crank ends up cracking.
    A "pro" will magnaflux the crank to test for cracking. If it's not cracked, then it can be reground. If it's cracked and reground then it will fail almost immediately.
    No 6G72 factory cranks are nitrided nor are any of them forged. They're all cast. There's a difference though between cast iron and cast steel.
    The crank in my car now is a 2nd gen one, it was reground and then nitrided some 10 years ago, it's been in several blocks now, has survived a stuck piston which broke a conrod and is still running without problems. It's all to do with the workmanship on the regrinding.
    Cast cranks will crack before they bend, forged cranks will tend to bend before they crack, just as conrods do.

    Steve
    Are you serious?
    No 6G72 cranks are forged? Seriously?

    Have you ever seen a 1993 or newer 6G72 crank? Or any one purchased from a dealer now?
    If none of them are forged, and all of them are cast, answer this: Why is the forge line in the newer (than 1992) crank wide and wavy and meandering like a forged line not a cast line? I would like to see that cast form that produces the wavy and wide "cast" line in the newer cranks.

    -Chris
    Last edited by Ninja Performance; 02-11-2011 at 08:34 AM.

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