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Thread: Round gauges suck...

  1. #1
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    Round gauges suck...

    Automobile Multimeter for EGT, Boost, Amber [SYL-1813A] - $53.50 : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry

    Really digging this! Im still considering not running a boost controller and no boost gauge on my car, just using 22lb springs in the Forge wastegates, but since i found these, i think my gauge problem is solved. These are inexpensive and will fit perfectly under the radio head unit in a simple plexiglass DIN style installation.

    Jason

    Silverstone Metallic 94 R2 FD and a Silver 2015 F250 Lariat Ultimate CCSB 6.7PSD
    Sold: Black 99 VR4 and two Pearl White 93 VR4's. Just say NO to FMIC's

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    Round gauges suck? Digital gauges suck. Seeing where a needle is at is MUCH easier at a quick glance.
    R135
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    Not for me, having had or been around both, i much prefer the digitals as i can see exactly the relevant info and nothing else.

    I myself find gauges rather pointless. By the time you actually SEE something wrong, its 9/10 times already too late. I like the fact that these gauges have an output for when a parameter is broken for whatever safety net you wanted in place.

    I almost want to build a 500+ awhp car and only have a wideband. No boost gauge, no boost controller, no stupid big ass FMIC.

    These cars work better with the absolute least amount of stuff changed on them.

    Jason

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    the BOSS of jellow supporter
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    well, with needle gauges at quick glance you can know where you are on the scale, near the end or in the middle. with digital ones, you need to alway remember your HI point. I hope that makes sense.

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    My title was more tongue in cheek.

    My biggest peeve with the standard gauges is either spend the worst day of your life pulling the stock gauges and mounting 52's in the stock gauge cluster to have it looking "right" since this platform is basically the only car in existence where stock is best.

    Or you are stuck putting them on the pillar which is about the most annoying place ever.

    Oil pressure is the only one i like to keep tabs on on the ready. If the car is built right, you should have no need to constantly be checking your gauges.

    I just need a boost gauge to make sure im running 22psi. Nothing more and nothing less. Wont even have a boost controller, 22lb springs in the wastegates and water meth tuned with an ARC2.

    Set and fucking forget bitches!..lol

    Jason

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    I see where Jason is coming from but also understand the simplicity of an analog scale.

    Thats a nice unit, CHEAP and like a dozen uses, pretty amazing.

    I am trying to keep an almost completely stock looking interior but its tough :/
    93 R/T - Modded, Full Suspension, Full Exhaust, Quaife Diff, Turbo brakes, Alpine/Boston Sound One of 25
    98 VR-4 - Billet 13t's, Downpipe, Blitz EBC, Ohlins R/T coil overs, SCE center differential, SCE oil pan, Pampena braced trans, TEC Rear Strut Bar, Custom Front Strut Bar, Camber Arms, Alum Driveshaft, 2" Koyo, Maximal oil cooler, SAFC2, Defi Gauges, RC 550's, Supra Pump, Skillard Splitter, Hardpipes, XYZ 14" front brakes/Carbotech, 255 Dunlop Z2's, AMR 18x9's, Alpine/Infinity/JL Sound. One of 13

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    the BOSS of jellow supporter
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    its called "peace of mind". never know what might happen to the car. gauges can be very useful, and distractive.

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    I like simplicity which is why this appeals to me and a small 1x2 gauge can be installed cleanly just about anywhere on the center console. I would like to put 4 on my car and stick them under the radio. Boost, oil pressure/temp and water temp.

    But will probably end up with only two and stack them in the DIN storage slot under the head unit, Just boost and oil pressure.

    Water temp is more important than most would assume, the stock gauge responds very slowly and for auto-x'ers and road racers and temp gauge that reads in real time is really important.

    Jason

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    i like the idea of no boost controller and just the forge wastegates. let me know how well they work.

    i think ill keep my FMIC though
    the basic go fast bits...
    forged short block, Billet DR1000's, 680cc injectors, meth inj, FMIC, MAFT, Apexi Neo, hotwired 255lph fuel pump.

    Tuned by Ray Pampena

    Just a fun Daily Driver.

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    If this platform had better sidemount options FMIC's would become almost obsolete.



    Will definitely let everyone know how the Forge WG's work using them standalone.

    My goal is simple, 22lbs of boost, pump+meth, tuned on an ARC2(done in 15 minutes) and thats really it. No need to over complicate this. Oh i have 19T HL's for turbos so im hoping for ~500awhp/tq at 22psi, will see if it makes it.

    Never taking this car down the track except at 3/S only meets, just want a simple yet very powerful street car that still feels and acts as much like BPU as possible. I will not accept a car anymore that has a "hobby car" feel to it. Jump in a drive is my intention, just as if i would a head/cam Vette.

    Jason
    Last edited by JasonY; 02-06-2011 at 12:37 AM.

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