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Thread: Clutch only works when car is rolling. I'm stumped.

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    Clutch only works when car is rolling. I'm stumped.

    Trans is 93 FWD converted Getrag.

    Applicable mods are Stage 2 clutch, and Fidanza Lightweight Flywheel.

    A while back my car suddenly became harder to get into gear. After a 30+ miles drive home through the city, it got to the point where it just plain wouldn't work. Now, sitting still idling, if you floor the clutch pedal and try to put it into gear it wont go, period; and the car baaarely tries to move.

    The clutch pedal feels like it doesn't travel as far as it used to, or should.

    If I get the car rolling, say above 30mph, the clutch works perfectly fine - through all gears. Pedal doesn't feel any better, but it works.

    I replaced the slave cylinder, and that didn't help. I seemed to make the clutch pedal just a taaaad bit better, but that's it.

    Any ideas?



    -Dave

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    Adjust the pedal yet? Im having serious issues with mine and it will lock you out of gear if it gets too bad

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    The one. The only. verified Feedback Score 14 (100%) stealthee's Avatar
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    Yeah either look into the pedal adjustment, or a master cylinder.

    [06-05, 19:29] OhioSpyderman: Brian, finding a woman is NOT the answer, you need to shop for a good VACUUM

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    Here are two things to check out.

    First check out this link and make sure that this is NOT the problem first. I spent about 6 months racking my brain and trying everything when this was the only problem. I wrote this article and everyone needs to read it.

    DO THIS NOW.

    Stealth 316 - Loose Clutch Pedal Support Bracket Bolt

    Now go to the following site and watch Jacks video on how to properly adjust the clutch before you do anything else. You will learn something.

    Jacks Transmissions LLC — Tech Articles

    Hope this helps.

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    The one. The only. verified Feedback Score 14 (100%) stealthee's Avatar
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    Jacks is actually not the proper way to adjust the pedal. The video posted by x2percentmilk shows the proper way.

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    1st ever COTM and COTY verified Feedback Score 9 (100%) green-lantern's Avatar
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    Always look for fluid on the carpet when something like this happens. Push your finger right under the master cylinder on the carpet. If you have fluid on you finger then you know the problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy View Post
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    1st ever COTM and COTY verified Feedback Score 9 (100%) green-lantern's Avatar
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    It's much easier for your clutch to work once your moving. I like to shift without a clutch once and a while. When you have the RPM and speed/gear right you don't need it.

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    Thank you for that link by the way, maxclass. That is by far the only thing I havent checked besides my pressure plate bolt torque, which requires dropping the transmission again. I really think that might be my issue, especially with how all over my engagement point is on a hour to hour basis. Ill be checking that out tomorrow for sure.

    Anyway, back onto firestorms problem
    Last edited by x2percentmilk; 01-31-2011 at 11:44 PM.

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    Maybe we should call Jack and tell him that. He clearly shows making an adjustment using the push-back from the slave cylinder to set a starting point to get maximum travel at the slave cylinder. As long as you are getting full travel and still have the required clearance at the top of the peddle how wrong can it be? Enlighten my please because I will have to adjust mine after I put the engine back in the car.

    Anyway the first link I posted tells of a problem any of us could easily have and not know it. If that one bolt is loose trying to adjust anything in the clutch system is a waste of time. Like I said in the article after I fixed mine I went directly to my fiance's car and hers was really loose to and I have had several others say the same thing.

    Only makes sense to check that bolt first. I check mine at least once a year.

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    First and foremost, thanks everyone for the replies.


    Quote Originally Posted by green-lantern View Post
    Always look for fluid on the carpet when something like this happens. Push your finger right under the master cylinder on the carpet. If you have fluid on you finger then you know the problem.
    No fluid, no visible leaks or significant fluid loss. Is it possible to have a bad master cylinder and not have an external leak?

    Quote Originally Posted by MaxClass View Post
    Here are two things to check out.

    First check out this link and make sure that this is NOT the problem first. I spent about 6 months racking my brain and trying everything when this was the only problem. I wrote this article and everyone needs to read it.

    DO THIS NOW.

    Stealth 316 - Loose Clutch Pedal Support Bracket Bolt

    Now go to the following site and watch Jacks video on how to properly adjust the clutch before you do anything else. You will learn something.

    Jacks Transmissions LLC — Tech Articles

    Hope this helps.
    I adjusted the pedal about 98% of the way out. seemed to help a hair, but nothing significant.


    Some other possibly important things I left out. I unhooked the clutch booster, and blocked everything off - that made no difference whatsoever in the feel of the pedal.


    Also, the car was previsouly a DOHC NA ATX car, we did a full swap and swapped over the pedal assemblies. I know recall one of the guys who helped mentioning a bracket that was left on the Vr-4, that was directly above the clutch pedal assembly. He stated a blot went up through the assembly, and bolted to this bracket. I'm going to assume that's the support bracket, and that being said, I don't have one. (go easy on me)

    That's all I can think of for now.

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